Sherry is (finally) cool again

You’ve seen it. Said it. Probably skimmed past it on a bar list without a second thought. For nearly two decades (maybe longer), it’s been quietly making its way onto menus, from neighbourhood joints to World’s 50 Best darlings (including Melbourne’s beloved Caretaker’s Cottage). No grand entrance. No headline billing. Yep, that’s sherry. 

Bartenders reach for it when a drink needs tension. When sweetness needs pulling back. When brightness needs a bit of spine. It’s the supporting act that steals the scene – if you’re paying attention. And while this writer would’ve happily kept sherry under wraps, the cat’s well and truly out of the bag. Sherry is finally getting its moment. 

We’ve already done the deep dive on sherry – the styles, the solera, the why-it-tastes-like-that of it all. But what we want to know is why sherry is suddenly everywhere. And why are drinkers suddenly paying attention? So, we spoke to sherry champions Rob Libecans, co-owner of Three Horses (and Caretaker’s) and Janet Hunter, head of sherry at Three Horses, about the shift. 

Sherry has travelled a long way from its home in southern Spain. Until recently, it was largely an in-the-know drink. Now, it’s stepping out of the cellar and into Aussies’ glasses. Even our own fortified sherries, now known as apera, are carving out a confident identity of their own. 

In truth, Australians have been tasting sherry’s influence for decades, even if they didn’t know it. “Sherry casks or barrels are an integral part of the whisky industry,” explains Rob. “Houses like The Macallan and Highland Park use sherry casks across their whole ranges to amplify and unify their signature liquids – even wineries across Australia are adopting sherry-ageing methods across products like sparkling wine to bolster their tastes and palate weights.”

Our Aussie apera is super distinct and exciting, with many winemakers experimenting with their own flor to create a completely individual expression of terroir. Much like sherry from Spain, apera can be sweet, rich or drier in the style of fino or manzanilla, depending on age, flor, solera or grape. 

While each sherry style carries its own signature flavour, running through them all is a subtle but distinctive line: a savoury, nutty, almost umami character that makes sherry one of the most food-friendly wines in the world. In Spain, you’d be hard pressed to order a chilled glass without a plate of something alongside it.

“Food pairing is a huge part of sherry culture,” explains Janet. “Even in places that don’t serve food, small pours keeps the wine fresh and invites conversation – you order another, stay a little longer, chat to the person standing next to you.” Eventually, a small snack like chips or olives may appear.

If you want a pairing that sings, keep it simple: ice-cold manzanilla and slices of Jamón Ibérico. The wine’s salty snap and nuttiness are a perfect match for the subtle nut flavours of Iberico, a ham that comes from the famous free-range, acorn-fed Iberico pigs.

So, if this umami-rich, complex, wildly food-friendly wine has been around for centuries, why is it only having its moment now? “We’ve always had sherry in cocktails at Caretaker’s Cottage. The only difference at Three Horses is we tell people about it,” Rob says. 

Generally, this comes down to changing palates and people now really leaning into umami, salty flavours. “When we looked at three years of our cocktail sales, six of the top 10 included sherry in them,” says Rob. “We didn't ever think that guests would order them for their inclusion of sherry – we believe those drinks stand out because of what sherry adds to those cocktails.” And that, he says, is added complexity and length of flavour.  

When Rob is building a drink, he rarely reaches for sugar or salt first. Instead, it might be a splash of manzanilla – not just for a flicker of salty notes, but to stretch and elevate the sweetness already in the drink. Or he might add a touch of Pedro Ximénez to a whisky cocktail to enhance the caramel and toffee notes and bring extra depth. 

This is all on show at Three Horses, particularly in their Jabberwock cocktail. “It’s essentially a Gin Martini with the inclusion of a fino-style sherry,” Rob says. The sherry brightens the Martini, but also adds a depth of flavour that lingers. For something a little lighter, Rob suggests their Cobbler, which is sherry and fruit served over crushed or pebble ice. “Think citrus and berries with a dry-style sherry, served ice cold,” Rob says. Perhaps more traditionally Spanish is the low-alc Rebujito – a mix of chilled fino or manzanilla with lemon, lime and soda water. And at the other end of the spectrum, sherry can slip seamlessly into spirit-forward territory. Swap in a darker style into an Old Fashioned – perhaps an oloroso for richness, or even a touch of PX if you like it sweeter – and the classic cocktail takes on a deeper, more layered edge.

To really get to know sherry, however, a seemingly simple fino and tonic is the way to go. “Tall, refreshing, low alcohol, salty, fresh and a touch bitter – there aren't many two-ingredient combinations that can match that level of complexity,” says Rob. “I haven't looked back in 20 years of enjoying this drink – so much so that it was the first drink I wanted on the menu at Three Horses.”