Get to know the savvy producers, past and present, turning out some of our finest beer, wine and spirits.
Women have always been involved in making alcohol. They were the world’s first producers of beer, sake and mead. Brewing was even considered a feminine craft in ancient times. Pre-Dionysus, the Greek’s wine-loving god of Mount Olympus, the alcohol-ruling deities were female. In Egypt, goddess Hathor ruled over love, women and drinking. The Sumerians had a beer goddess, Ninkasi, and she kept priestesses who brewed, chanted recipes and drank beer to honour her. Even the first-known depiction of a person brewing – a 25,000-year-old cave carving – is of a woman.
In the past 20,000 years or so, things shifted, empires rose and civilisations fell, and we’ve landed in a golden age of brewing, creating and branding alcohol where women are, once again, leading the way. Here, we look at a handful of producers and founders doing just that.
The makers
1. Lesley Gracie, Hendrick’s Gin
To be the master distiller at one of the world’s most renowned alcohol companies in the world is an epic feat, but Lesley Gracie is also the original creator Hendrick’s Gin. Almost 30 years ago, Lesley was a chemist with a decade-long pharmaceutical career, when chance put her in the position to apply her botanical knowledge to the perfect gin recipe. She’s been there ever since, experimenting, pushing boundaries and carving the path for gin excellence.
Try: Hendrick’s Gin
2. Virginia Willcock, Vasse Felix
As the chief winemaker of Margaret River’s oldest winery, Virginia Willcock hasn’t been afraid to challenge perception at Vasse Felix. The full collection of wines here – pinnacle chardonnays, semillon sauvignon blends and cabernets among them – have been refined and elevated under Virginia’s care. She isn’t just doing things one way because that’s how they’ve always been done – and she’s only getting started. Last year, she was named Halliday Wine Companion’s Winemaker of the Year.
3. Teresa Heuzenroeder, Jansz
Cool-climate sparkling wines are Teresa Heuzenroeder’s expertise. With more than 30 years under her belt working with Tasmanian and South Australian grapes, Teresa is the winemaker to thank for the consistently excellent Jansz bubbles at all your dinner parties. Jansz – part of the Yalumba and Hill Smith Family Estates that’s led by Louisa Rose – is one of the icons of Tasmanian sparkling and Australian wine.
Try: Jansz Premium Rosé
At the back end of last year, Perth’s Feral Brewing Co. announced they’d snagged top London brewer Charlotte Freeston. Already a brewery that embraces bold and unapologetic character and flavour – it is called “feral”, after all – Charlotte is leaning further into the wild and rebellious in her new role. More gut instinct, less safe bets and absolutely no beige flags; Charlotte is a brewer who wants to surprise and excite, and we’re keeping a close eye on everything to roll out under her watch.
Try: Feral Brewing Co. Biggie Juice East Coast IPA
Sarah Watson has been described as the Heston Blumenthal of rum, and she has a fittingly Willy Wonka-esq job title: Liquid development and innovation manager. A scientist and rum perfectionist, Sarah is the brains behind one of Australia’s most recognisable exports (next to Vegemite, Foster’s and Hemsworths). She, however, is Scottish, but she’s working to keep this oh-so Aussie brand as good as it can be.
Try: Bundaberg Master Dillers Small Batch Vintage Barrel
The founders
Okay, Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin didn’t exactly found Clicquot, but it wouldn’t be the mega name in Champagne without her. Originally named Clicquot-Muiron et Fils by Ponsardin’s father-in-law, Philippe Clicquot-Muiron, she took it over in 1805 and transformed it into a premier Champagne house. It wasn’t luck either. After years of failure, the death of her husband and a four-year apprenticeship, she took on more investment to hedge her bets on the Russians’ thirst for sweet Champagne. As soon as the Napoleonic wars came to an end, a shipment was made and Tsar Alexander declared Clicquot as the only Champagne he’d drink, and Ponsardin was made. See? We had influencers in the 19th century, too.
Try: Veuve Clicquot Brut
2. Margot Robbie, Josey McNamara and Regan Riskas, Papa Salt
Margot Robbie is a big believer in collaboration. She launched her production company, LuckyChap, with her husband Tom Ackerley and friend Josey McNamara, and did the same with Papa Salt, also bringing in more friends Regan Riskas and Charlie Maas. Being gin-lovers, the friends found there was less choice of their favourite spirit in the US, so they set out to make a gin they loved that would be available where they want to drink it. It was a five-year project of collaboration and patience (59 recipes were tried), but it’s paid off (and you can’t miss that striking bottle, either).
3. Kendall Jenner, 818 Tequila
Say what you will about the Kardashian/Jenner clan, but you can’t deny they know good business. Since launching six years ago with a Blanco, Reposado and Añejo, 818 Tequila has become one of the fastest-growing brands across the tequila and overall spirits categories in the US, according to Forbes. Authenticity seems to have a lot to do with it. Behind Kendall (who’s been passionate about the sustainability of 818 from the jump), are family-run farms and traditional distilling methods in Jalisco, Mexico. It’s also the cool bottle and award-winning taste; Gen Z cares about those things, too.
Try: 818 Tequila Blanco
4. Jeanne-Alexandrine Louise Pommery, Pommery
Turns out history is full of widows finding their fortune in Champagne. Pommery was founded in 1858 in Reims, France, as Pommery & Greno by Alexandre Louis Pommery and Narcisse Greno – not as a Champagne house, but as a wool-trading business. Following Alexandre’s death shortly after, his widow Jeanne-Alexandrine Louise Pommery took over, pivoting to Champagne and creating the first modern brut (dry) Champagne. Then she expanded into the British market, and pioneered the use of Roman chalk pits as cellars.
5. Holly Klintworth, Bass & Flinders
Back to the market today, Bass & Flinders Distillery owner, head distiller and managing director Holly Klintworth is one of a select group of second-generation distillers in Australia. Her father started the distillery in 2009 and she joined full-time in 2016. Holly is also the former (and first female) president of the Australian Distillers Association. She believes in maximising and reflecting their home turf, so the cool climate of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula plays a big part in their gin and brandy expressions.
6. Callie Jemmeson, Pacha Mama
In the style of Madame Cliquot and Pommery, Callie Jemmeson has taken something started by a male family member (this time her father, and his retirement-project vineyard), and turned it into something much bigger. With Pacha Mama, Callie is out to make delicious and honest wines. She works with all kinds of grape varieties, following what she loves rather than what the rules say. .



























