NOW EXPERIENCING:Wines of While

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 18 Jan 2023

By
Max Veenhuyzen


Mediterranean flavours power the easy-going menu at this game-changing wine bar and bottle shop that helped popularise organic drops and winemaking around Perth.

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Why you goPerth has long had wine bars. And organically made wines. But a venue that dares to focus exclusively on wines produced without synthetic additives? Wines of While was a trailblazer and introduced many West Australian wine drinkers to the pleasures of skin-contact whites (the result of an ancient winemaking method that produces savoury, orange-coloured wines), juicy chilled reds and other hallmarks of the – at-times controversial – “natural wine” movement. Best of all, Wines of While went about its business in a way that valued fun over education and Perth responded emphatically. The bar has been packed since its launch in 2018 and, as improbable as it sounds, it has only grown busier since.
Why you stayWhile many will factor a Wines of While pit stop into their evening, regulars generally settle in for the night, not least because once you’ve popped some corks on a couple of delicious bottles, it becomes all too easy to lose track of time. Like in the new-wave wine bars of London, Paris and Tokyo that Wines of While is modelled on, here management is serious about the wine – good glassware and decanters are par for course – but the atmosphere and service style are dialled back to casual and cool. It’s a compliment equally payable to the hip waitstaff, who are only too happy to play matchmaker between customers and Wines of While’s formidable stockpile of vino.
What drink to orderThe wine, naturally. Those rolling solo or new to this natural-wine thing should head straight for the chalkboard menu. The dozen or so by-the-glass options cover the organic-winemaking spectrum, from naturally carbonated fizz – the French call this style pétillant naturel, or pét-nat for short – to lighter European red wines and hard-to-classify winemaking experiments: anyone for a sparkling “ambrosia” made with wildflower honey and merlot? The standard practice when drinking in a group, however, is to take it in turns to browse the shelves and fridges and pick out a bottle to share – all wines have both a takeaway and drink-in price (the takeaway price plus corkage) scrawled on them in chalk. Otherwise, the bar also stocks beer and cider plus a small range of spirits and liqueurs
What to pair it withJust as French, Italian and Spanish wines dominate the bar’s inventory, Mediterranean flavours beat at the heart of the kitchen. One part of the menu is dedicated to share-friendly small plates such as deeply flavoured pork, fennel and duck terrine, while the likes of prawn and scallop spaghetti and steak frites starring grass-fed sirloin with golden chips make fine main dishes. Whatever the size of your party, don’t miss the deeply tanned, house-baked sourdough – it’s crunchy, savoury and plays nicely with pretty much the entire menu. A vibrant pop-up and guest-chef calendar ensures the dining is as engaging as the wining.
Regular’s tipAre they still called the best seats in the house if they’re outside? Technicalities aside, the alfresco tables on William Street are where you want to be, especially on a sunny day. Just one catch: most of these tables are walk-in only, meaning your best bet to nab one is to get here in the mid- to late afternoon and cross your fingers. That said, Wines of While has started accepting reservations for tables inside. On a Friday or Saturday night, scoring one of these coveted bookings guarantees you and your crew a table for at least two hours.
Who to takeThere are many ways to introduce a little Wines of While into your life. The bar’s cosy-casual attitude and the conversation-friendly volume of the music makes it an excellent option for that all-important second date. Equally, assembling a crew – somewhere between four and eight feels about right – and deleting bottles from the bar’s inventory is a popular pastime among local wine lovers, particularly on weekends.