NOW EXPERIENCING:Lalla Rookh

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 30 Aug 2022

By
Max Veenhuyzen


Italy meets Australia at this model inner-city pub. Smartly designed and staffed with hospitality pros, Lalla Rookh wants to help Perth eat and drink better.

Why you goBlessed is the workplace that can claim this underground bunker as its local. While the city centre is awash with drinking establishments, Lalla Rookh stands out from the pack thanks to its excellent drink options across the board and punchy Italian cooking, all without sacrificing that everyman quality synonymous with great pubs. True, the heaving public bar might sport more power dressers and suits than your neighbourhood watering hole, yet engaging staff have a knack for making all comers feel at home.
Why you stayBecause, as much as we love the intimacy of a small bar, big can be beautiful. Or, at the very least, a fun way to make the transition from work to play at day’s end. While Lalla is far from shy – you’ll hear the clamour of the crowd as you descend the staircase from St Georges Terrace into the atrium – the atmosphere is buzzy rather than berserk. The aim of the game is to unwind rather than to get loose and Lalla achieves this through professional service and a considered food-and-drinks package that covers everything from the briefest of pit stops to a long lunch for the ages.
What drink to orderWhere does one start? There’s not a weak link in Lalla’s extensive drinks list. Save for the occasional brew from Byron Bay, West Australian brewers such as Nail and Cheeky Monkey dominate the tap-beer selections, with bigger names (Peroni, Cascade, Little Creatures) among the packaged beers. Bartenders will happily mix classics as well as house creations such as the Cuke Nukem, an invigorating potion of tequila, lime and cucumber. The wine selection is one of the city’s best, the glass options taking in everything from refreshing, crowd-pleasing pinot grigio to intriguing skin-contact wines.
What to pair it withGolden, crunchy and more than a little addictive, Lalla’s fried potatoes with aïoli are a common sight throughout the venue. If you’re drinking in a group, ordering a bowl of these right off the bat is the fastest way to attain hero status. Elsewhere on the piccolo, or “small”, section of the menu, the TFC (Tuscan fried chicken) is another good time, while the puffy, traditionally topped pizzas go wonderfully with lighter-bodied red wines and – in traditional Italian style – beer. If the occasion calls for more than snacks, rigatoni pasta with ragù is an ideal meal for one, while a hefty, golden-fried bone-in veal cotaletta cutlet deliciously channels the parmis of counter meals past.
Regular’s tipAlthough management has set its sights higher than your run-of-the-mill alehouse, team Lalla hasn’t lost sight of its pubby-ness, as proven by the welcome offer of happy hour that lets guests enjoy cut-price pints, wines by the glass and house spirits (5:00pm to 6:00pm, Tuesday to Thursday). While most of the action takes place in the public bar and atrium, the semi-hidden 20-seat wine bar is best for more intimate occasions. It’s also home to an outstanding selection of Italian and Australian wines – a nod to the two major influences that shape Lalla’s identity.
Don’t leave withoutIn addition to being able to buy bottles to be enjoyed in-house, with an additional corkage charge, the wine bar-slash-shop also lets guests bring some of that Lalla magic home with them. Sommelier Jeremy Prus and his team are on hand to make recommendations and the bar’s stand-alone wine list is one of the city’s enjoyable instances of try-before-you-buy. Beers are also available to buy.
Who to takeAnyone and everyone. Lalla’s versatility and accessibility are two of its strong points and make this gem in Perth’s white-collar heartland as suited to a date night as it is to celebrating – getting that big deal over the line, the end of financial year, your team winning the grand final – with a group. The inner-city pub is alive and well, indeed.