NOW EXPERIENCING:The Rover
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The Rover

Tuesday: 4:00 PM – 12:00 AM
75 Campbell Street, Surry Hills, NSW, 2010
Website
therover.com.au
Instagram
@theroversurryhills

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 22 Sep 2022

By
Matty Hirsch

A name change and glow-up have put a spring back into The Rover’s step, placing this neighbourhood mainstay back on the map as a grown-up drinking and dining destination.

Bar Counter at The Rover Sydney
Why you goFor some time now, the north-western pocket of Surry Hills, on the cusp of the CBD, has been something of a gold mine for great places to eat and drink. When The Wild Rover opened on Campbell Street back in April of 2013, it swiftly became one of the area’s key players, forging a sterling reputation for its broad whisky selection, extroverted service and killer sausage roll. Over the course of the ensuing years, the saloon (named after an Irish folk song), with a virtually unmarked entrance, kept the area buzzing and grew to be a constant fixture in conversations about the city’s best small bars. In that time, no part of the operation lost any of its lustre, but in February of 2022 co-owners James Bradey and Warren Burns decided it was time for a refresh. The “wild” may now be gone, but in its place is a new back bar, slicker interiors and an elevated offering that should put this veteran back at the top of your list.
Why you stayPush the door open and the famed “Rover roar” – a boisterous chorus of greeting from the staff – still makes you feel right at home, just as it has for the past nine years. While a fair bit has changed inside, it’s a sign that good hospitality remains a touchstone of The Rover experience. Clearly, James and Warren have taken some of what has made their two Sydney CBD steakhouses (Bistecca and The Gidley) raging successes and applied it here, stripping the walls of the jungle wallpaper to expose the bricks, throwing down plush tartan carpet and adding texture with luxe upholstery. It was hardly an unpleasant place to sit before, but it’s more comfortable and prettier than ever now, especially with the windows now uncovered so the natural light streams in.
Dine In at The Rover Bar and Restaurant Sydney
Jameson and Fresh Apple Juice at The Rover Sydney
What drink to orderThe best way to ease into proceedings is with a Jameson and fresh apple juice. Sure, it may not be the most revolutionary of drinks, but it really is the perfect precursor for whichever direction you choose to go next. And here that really could be anywhere, from a Black and Tan that keeps with the loosely Irish theme, to a bottle from the 50-strong list of mostly organic and biodynamic wines. When it comes to the harder stuff, whisky is certainly a strong suit, but a cocktail like the Comeback Kid, tequila laced with kumquat, fennel and lime, shows that all bases are securely covered.
What to pair it withEven after all these years, the signature lamb sausage roll – made in-house, baked to order and accompanied by earthy-sweet beetroot ketchup – is still well worth the 20-minute wait. But where food was once more of an afterthought, it’s now a fully fledged drawcard thanks to an expanded, seafood-forward menu overseen by executive chef Pip Pratt. Southern-style fried oysters come highly recommended, and rightfully so – they’re ultra-crisp and dressed in mussel-infused tartare sauce. The dish to beat, however, has to be the curried fish-finger roll sweetened by a drizzle of mango chutney and cleverly served with spiced papadums.
Wine Pairing Snacks at The Rover Bar and Restaurant Sydney
Fine Dine at The Rover Sydney
Why we love itIn an often-fickle city like Sydney, name changes and refurbs can be a tricky business. Rare is the established bar that reinvents itself and improves the way The Rover has, staying true to its original spirit while keeping up with the times. Savvy operators, take note: this is how you do it.
Make it fancyFans of the brown water will find ample opportunities to indulge here. A quick tour of Scotland’s finest might begin up in Speyside with a nip of 16-year-old Mortlach ($40) or a dram of Glenmorangie Signet ($45) from the Highlands, before jutting across to the Isle of Skye to savour Talisker’s peaty 25-year-old bottling ($70). Those who prefer their whisky spelled with an “e”, meanwhile, could do far worse than a punchy tot of Ireland’s Red Spot ($55) or Redbreast 21-year-old expression ($57). Wine lovers aren’t excluded from the high-stakes fun either, with back vintages from local legends such as Yarra Yering on offer alongside big-name European benchmarks both classic (Joh Jos Prüm, say) and cult with the likes of Radikon.
Who to takeIt’s hard to imagine anyone wouldn’t enjoy a sophisticated, low-lit bar like this, with bang-on drinks, sharply executed food and service that hits all the marks. So perhaps it pays to think instead about the people in your life who’d appreciate it more than most and call on them. The undeniable likeability of the place, coupled with its prime location, make it a worthy choice for pretty much every occasion.
Must Try Dishes at The Rover Bar and Restaurant Sydney
Authour image
Matty HirschMatty Hirsch is a Sydney-based writer, critic and editor whose work has appeared in Time Out, Delicious and Gourmet Traveller.
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Drinks DirectoryAfter work drinksSydney – Inner CityRestaurantA+ spirits listSydneyMeal and a bevDate nightKiller cocktailsBarCasual catch-upWheelchair accessible
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