NOW EXPERIENCING:Bentley Restaurant & Bar

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 23 Feb 2023

By
Matty Hirsch


Benley is one of Sydney's top wine bars

The seductive bar at this seminal Sydney fine-dining restaurant combines sophisticated snacks and a world-class drinks program with unrivalled polish and precision.

Seating arrangement at Bentley
Why you goAny ‘best of’ list or respectable restaurant guide will tell you that Bentley is one of Australia’s most impressive restaurants, full stop. What they may not point out is that the bar is a reason to visit in its own right, with a distinct set of pleasures. Beyond the heavy brass doors, the bustle of city life melts away in this handsome, low-lit enclave of high and low tables, leather banquettes and stools flanking the bar, all of which offer views of the kitchen. Sure, you could just pop in for a quick pale ale or a glass of Dom Pérignon, but you’ll want to kick up your heels and empty your pockets because the synergy of inventive cooking and world-class drinks is electric.
Why you stayA chance to enjoy the fruits of a fine-diner in a way that’s both flexible and approachable without committing to booking fees, tasting menus and all the other bells and whistles is a rare thing – and it’s exactly what makes the bar at Bentley such a draw. A pit-stop here is never anything short of a grown-up experience, with a level of class and sophistication you don’t come across every day. The interiors, designed by Melbourne starchitect Pascale Gomes-McNabb, are a study in refined eclecticism, combining brass, glass and herringbone parquetry with sculptural scaffold-like beams and strokes of black paint across the ceiling. Throw in glassware and crockery almost too pretty to touch, and service that always seems to be a step ahead, and it becomes quite the package deal.
What drink to orderIt’s been said before, but it bears repeating: Bentley is one of the finest places to enjoy wine, not just in Sydney but all of Australia. Flip through the 100-plus pages of the drinks list curated by sommelier and co-owner Nick Hildebrandt and you’ll spot drops you never knew existed – skin-contact wine from Turkey’s Cappadocia? They sit next to benchmark bottles from big-name regions and museum-worthy gems more than a century old. With 30 or so options by the glass or carafe, you can customise a proper journey, then ramp up the fun by adding a half-bottle or doubling down with something large-format. Maps, poetic tasting notes and detailed bios about the producers will likely teach you a thing or two along the way as well.
What to pair it withConsidering chef and co-owner Brent Savage runs one of the most demanding kitchens in town, the question isn’t so much whether you should eat, but rather what you should order. You won’t find a softer, smoother, more airy duck-liver parfait than his, but the snacks that really surprise and delight are even more adventurous. Think lion’s mane mushrooms wrapped in kangaroo loin or ridiculously juicy chunks of Bay lobster fried to perfect crispness in delicate tempura batter. Dishes from the restaurant menu regularly feature on the bar list so, yes, you should order yellowfin tuna tartare bolstered by pickled kelp and the crunch of celeriac. In short, you should order as much as you possibly can.
Pouring a glass of wine at Bentley in Sydney
Why we love itWhere some restaurant bars can feel like an afterthought – a cramped or uncomfortable holding pen designed to do nothing but drain more dollars from diners – the bar at Bentley is no second fiddle to the restaurant. No matter how much time or money you spend, it’s highly likely you’ll try something new and exciting, and you’re guaranteed to walk away feeling like a VIP, thanks to the efforts of a service team widely considered one of the city’s best.
Who to takeReserve Bentley for those who appreciate the finer things in life, whether it’s a pal with a discriminating palate, a date you’re looking to impress or colleagues keen to level up Friday night drinks after work.
A selection of dishes at Bentley in Sydney
Regular’s tipIf you like what you have to drink here – or like drinking well more generally – then it’s well worth a browse through the Bentley Wine Vault. Launched during the pandemic lockdowns, the online store offers access to a vast range of wines from Nick’s cellar, amassed over the course of 15 years, including back-vintages and hard-to-find gems seldom available on bottle-shop shelves (we’re looking at you, 1979 Château Lafite Rothschild).
image credits: Leigh Griffiths