NOW EXPERIENCING:Huelo

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 31 Oct 2023

By
David Matthews


A three-for-one Newtown crowd-pleaser offering clever tropical cocktails in the middle, a Euro-style wine bar and shop up front, and a sunny courtyard out back.

Entrance to Huelo
Why you go

King Street is already loaded with some of Sydney’s best bars and restaurants, so any newcomers need to be at the top of their game to draw a crowd. Thankfully Huelo, right next to gelateria-of-the-moment Mapo, and a couple of doors up from pizza parlour Bella Brutta, went hard. Pitching itself as a three-for-one, this newcomer (Huelo flung open its doors in April 2023) offers a general store and wine bar in the front, a 12-seat cocktail bar in the middle and a cosy courtyard for drinks and snacks out the back. 

It helps that the team behind it can wave serious credentials about, too, with Dre Walters – owner of rollicking CBD rooftop bar Old Mate’s Place – backing Swan “Swanny” Kanongataa, who brings bar skills honed at Sydney’s Wild Rover and Bistecca and The Joker in south London to the picture. He also brings his Tongan background (“huelo” means ray of light in Tongan), which means there’s a tropical edge to his cocktails, but the pair cite “Miami tropical glam” as the theme above anything, at least for the cocktail bar and courtyard, which is overloaded with ferns and fairy lights. Out front, it’s old-world charm all the way, with dried garlic and chillies strung from the ceiling, pasta sauce, pickles, olive oil and tinned fish on the shelves, and a flywheel slicer working overtime on cured meats. Pull up a stool in the middle, slide into a booth out back, or browse the shelves up front and prepare to make a night of it.

Why you stayNewtown is where it happens. If you’re not in for a full night at Huelo, chances are you’ll hop between some of the inner-west suburb’s other exceptional drawcards. But if you do decide to visit, you’re likely to stick around. The courtyard is made for long afternoons and lazy evenings spent under flickering string lights and over share plates, where groups crowd the benches after work or classes. As the night progresses, you can move to the front, where things are more sophisticated. Wine by the glass is written on the blackboard, and somm Alice Massaria (who directed the program at city steakhouses Bistecca and The Gidley) has pulled together a beauty of an offer. Expect light and bright locals, varieties outside of the usual, and plenty sourced from Italy and France. You can perch at high marble tables or at the window overlooking King Street’s buzz, in between stints browsing the shelves of jars, tins and handmade ceramics, exposed brick and timber accents giving the whole place an understated Euro charm. And that’s before the night progresses and the cocktail bar becomes the main event.
People enjoying at Huelo
What drink to orderIt depends where you sit. Cocktails are available throughout the venue, but the courtyard calls for an ice-cold local lager or a pitch-perfect Negroni, while upfront think fizz or vino – Karridale Chenin Blanc by Margaret River’s tripe.Iscariot, say, or a smashable gamay-pinot blend from central France. You really can’t leave without ordering cocktails, though, whether it’s the weekly punch (maybe a wintry mix of Hendrick’s Gin with Earl Grey tea, lemon and clove) or a retro revival of the Midori Sour, with aloe vera and lemon lending flavour to gin and the bright-green melon liqueur, the whole thing topped with a cloud of Champagne foam. The ’90s to now in one glass.
What to pair it withKeep it simple and start with a plate of Merimbula rock oysters served on a bed of rock salt and amped up with tangy mignonette dressing, then move to snacks: cured meats sliced to order, sourdough from dough-whisperers AP Bakery (maybe even topped with anchovies), or a ball of Italy’s creamy burrata cheese with pine nuts and grapes. There’s a couple of hot dishes, ranging from shoestring fries to school prawns and whitebait flashed in the fryer, while the sardines have become a signature, the classic flavours of pine nuts and raisins giving them an extra edge. Dinner? Not quite, but all the more reason to overload your table.
Why we love itHuelo isn’t just a breath of fresh air, it’s versatile, flexing and bending to suit all occasions and moods. It’s also something new for the north side of King Street, a perfect, low-key complement to feted sake bar Ante and ferment-forward Odd Culture across the road. But apart from the obvious draws on the menu, Huelo has something that’s always gone well in Newtown: a courtyard. Just think of the beer garden at the Courthouse or jostling for outdoor space at nearby Corridor and you’ll realise that postcode 2024 loves a drink in the open air. Make it your first stop, then explore everything else Huelo has to offer.
Cocktail served at Huelo
Don’t leave withoutBrowse the shelves. It is a general store, after all, as long as general in your world means a pantry full of handmade pasta, slow-simmered Italian sugo tomato sauce, local hot sauce, imported tinned fish, grassy olive oil, jam, marmalade and fancy sea salt. If you’re not walking out with a bagful of supplies, you’re doing it wrong.
Who to takeYour call. But best to have a game plan. If you’re headed out the back, this is a place to park yourself on a Friday afternoon and put the call out, friends dropping by, and maybe sticking around for the night. If you’re itching for cocktails, the bar counter is a cosy spot for two, while the front bar keeps things casual and snacky – think small groups, Newtown sightseers or someone you’re super-comfortable being in close quarters with. In short, Huelo’s trick is that all three spaces (and apparently one more to come, upstairs), capture everyone and anyone. Give it a whirl and pick your favourite.