NOW EXPERIENCING:Teddy’s Enmore

Party down the bottom, classier party up the top. Inner-west stalwart The Warren View has opened Teddy’s, a charming new bar on its top level, so you can tailor your night to your fanciness levels.

Seating at Teddy's Enmore, Sydney
Why you go

The Warren View Hotel on Stanmore Road in Enmore is about as inner west as a King Street traffic snarl or the excessively faded Oporto billboard (will they ever replace that thing?). It’s always been known for its friendly neighbourhood atmosphere, strong local beer line-up and unwaveringly on-the-money pub food. Famously, it was also once home to a giant fibreglass redback spider that clung – inexplicably – to the thick trunk of the eucalypt at the centre of the beer garden. The spider is gone – tasteful fairy lights are draped in its place – but all the other good stuff remains. 

And now there’s another reason to love the Wazza. Upstairs – or up one level in the shiny new lift – is Teddy’s, a glitzy, velvet-swathed bar that acts as the pub’s more elegant sibling. Anchored by its dreamy architecture (roof beams and bricks are both tastefully exposed), you’d never know you were in part of a pub. If The Warren View is the place to meet that Hinge date for a first exploratory drink, Teddy’s is where you go for date number two to let them know things are getting serious.

Why you stayAt the time of writing, Teddy’s was still finding its feet; it can be a bit of work to educate a resolutely schooners-and-schnitties crowd that there’s an entirely fresh offering hovering over their heads. But it’s definitely worth a look – there’s a more refined menu, a solid cocktail list and considered wines on pour. Jewel-toned velvet furnishings, a collection of tongue-in-cheek art and a glamorous back bar all tie together to give the Warren View a new sheen of respectability.
The bar and seating at Teddy's Enmore, Sydney
A Martini at Teddy's Enmore, Sydney
What drink to orderThe cocktails should be your first port of call. The West Juliett (the name pays tribute to a now-defunct cafe of the same name a few streets away) is a riff on a Manhattan using Australia’s most excellent rye whiskey, The Gospel from Melbourne. The Golden Hour is another good one, held together by two Sydney spirits champions: Archie Rose vodka and Banks & Solander’s award-winning limoncello. The all-Australian wine list is peppered with bangers including a fiano from Victorian quiet achievers Minim and two low-intervention Margaret River beauties: a chardonnay from St Vintners and a Cullen cab sav. And just because you’re in a la-di-da bar now, rather than downstairs at the pub, that doesn’t mean you have to forgo a tap beer. There’s always six on rotation, and they’re always proud Aussie independents – examples could include Grifter, Dangerous Ales, Bentspoke and Young Henrys.
What to pair it withThe whole Teddy’s menu is snacky and shareable (double back downstairs if you want to get something hefty like a burger or a pasta into you). The picks are the deep-fried calamari (the thin julienne of fried chilli tangled through it is a nice touch) and the taramasalata and sweet potato chips. Though if you order the latter be sure to grab a chunk of house-made focaccia as well – it suffers a touch from a skewed dip-to-chip ratio.
A variety of dishes served at Teddy's Enmore, Sydney
Regular’s tipSunset is a great time to pack yourself into the Teddy’s rafters. When it’s light outside, the team will keep the giant east-west windows open so the final rays of the sun dance over the lounges and glint off the already glittering back bar. As night falls, the blinds are drawn, transforming the space into an intimate clubhouse.
Inside Teddy's Enmore, Sydney
Don’t leave withoutCheck out the art. There’s a framed pic of Frank Zappa in the bathroom and a Warhol-esque print of a scrunched packet of Marlboro Reds on the streetside wall. The jewel, however, is what would appear to be a signed David Bowie photo on the back wall. The scrawled epitaph reads “Thanks for helping me with my luggage!” but it wasn’t actually written by Bowie. The backstory: when co-owner Tanya Damianakis was younger she ran into the ’70s rocker at an airport, and he asked her to mind his bags for a moment. Most would have jumped at the chance, but Tanya refused “because who knows what a rock star might have in their luggage!”. The photo is a tongue-in-cheek tribute to their presumably tense – and hilarious – exchange.