NOW EXPERIENCING:Goodwater
Friday: 5:00 PM – 12:00 AM
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Read time 3 Mins

Posted 02 May 2024

By
Tomas Telegramma


The open front windows at Goodwater in Melbourne

It’s not strictly whiskey business here – a tight edit of beer and wine is also on offer – but this is a bar specialising in American hooch and snacks run by seasoned hospo talent.

Inside Goodwater in Melbourne's Northcote
Why you goWe love a small bar with big ambitions. Like neighbourhood spot Goodwater, which has sky-high aspirations to build the best collection of American whiskey in Australia. With 200-plus bottles already – including rare and vintage varieties – it’s well on its way. A dream team of hospitality professionals, led by whiskey fanatic Nate White, has given fellow fanatics a new place to bond over their shared love – at tastings and masterclasses – while making the spirit more accessible to the masses. The cocktails are skilfully crafted, the service is thoughtful, assuming no prior whiskey knowledge, and the snacks match the Americana theme deliciously. But it’s also important to note that Goodwater is a great bar even if you’re not into whiskey. A bottle-green frontage catches your eye on Northcote’s High Street, and inside is a red-brick drinking den that’s warmed up with a local crowd and a sprawling rug, while there’s a timber-clad courtyard out back.
What drink to orderThis watering hole is built on a ballooning whiskey collection, so that’s your best starting point. From an OG Wild Turkey to a small-batch Kentucky bourbon like Michter’s, there’s something for everyone. If you’re early in your whiskey-drinking career, let your bartender be your guide; if you’re an aficionado, splash out on something special. And if drinking whiskey neat isn’t your cup of tea, try it in a cocktail like the Champagne Old Fashioned (essentially a fancy bourbon and coke) that blends Four Roses bourbon with orange bitters and a dash of absinthe. A clever feature of the cocktail list means that it caters to all sorts of drinkers – each house cocktail can come as a strong stirred drink, a fresher alternative that’s shaken up or served as a Highball, or non-alcoholic. And it’s not strictly whiskey business: a tight edit of (mostly local) beer and wine is also on offer.
Goodwater has one of the the best American whiskey collections in Melbourne
What to pair it withThe all-American brief that applies to the whiskeys here also applies to the bar snacks you can punctuate your sips with. The menu bears influence from many, many different American regions, so perhaps take a trip to New Orleans, Louisiana – better known as NOLA – with a po’ boy sandwich packed with crisp fried shrimp. For the side, a bowl of chips, but not as you know them: Goodwater gets sliced-up pickles, breads them with cornmeal, deep-fries them and serves them with a buttermilk ranch dressing. But if something simpler is what you’re after, there’s a molten grilled-cheese sandwich (levelled up with a healthy swipe of onion jam that’s spiked with Spain’s rich Pedro Ximénez sherry).
A wide range of whiskeys at Goodwater in Melbourne
Why we love itThe group behind Goodwater is as big as it is brilliant, their CVs reading like a blow-by-blow of some of Melbourne’s favourite bars. At the helm is Nate White, formerly of Bar Margaux and Romeo Lane. He’s joined by Cara Devine (Bomba), Yao Wong (The Elysian, Whisky & Alement), Fred Siggins (The Black Pearl), April Hudson (The Keys), John Hallett (The Everleigh) and Kia Rasteh (Honey Barrel, an online whiskey retailer).
Regular’s tipWhen Melbourne’s weather turns it on – however briefly – Goodwater makes the most of it. Flinging open the huge bi-fold windows out front invites not only the breeze but also the punters meandering along High Street. Snag a seat at one of those pole-position tables by the window to get the best of both worlds: face out and watch the arvo go by on Northcote’s main drag or face in to see the well-oiled Goodwater crew in full swing. (Sometimes your waiter will even duck out the front door to serve you from the street.)
Don’t leave withoutTake a closer look at the collection of framed prints that line both sides of the front bar. They’re maps that trace the ebbs and flows of the Mississippi River, which stretches almost 4000 kilometres. But what’s the significance? A Native American name for the Mississippi River translates to “great water”, which is what inspired the bar’s name.
Who to takeWe’ve already established that Goodwater has the kind of back bar your whiskey-obsessed mates will be impressed with any day of the week. But there’s more to love. Line up your visit with one of the bar’s regular whiskey-focused events and let those mates really nerd out. Some have free entry, others are more premium ticketed affairs – all about vintage American bottles from the cellar – but all will open your eyes to new parts of the wide world of whiskey. Keep an eye on the bar’s events page for updates.
The ambience at Goodwater in Melbourne