NOW EXPERIENCING:Gemini

A local created by locals is off to a good start. Add great drinks, a snack-happy menu and genuine warmth, and you get the neighbourhood joint we all wish we had.

A glass of wine at Gemini
Why you go

When it came to naming their wine bar-cafe-pantry, Tresna Lee and Shane Farrell took inspiration from their shared Gemini status. It’s a canny nod to the multi-faceted personality that has made this Sydney Road spot an instant classic, from delivering morning coffee to late-night cocktails and servicing all ports in between. 

A brilliant reno the couple did themselves of a dilapidated old shopfront has kept its period charm and overlaid it with a smart but not too try-hard layer of modern schmick (look no further than the rust-coloured felt light fittings over the bar that look super-cool while also helping squelch the noise). Inside the rugged red-brick walls there are caramel leather banquettes for groups and tiny two-tops for intimate tête-à-tête-ing. It feels good, and delivers that triangulation of good drinks, snacks and warmth that makes you want to adopt it as your own.

 

What drink to order Sometimes it’s a virtue not to have a list that bamboozles you with endless choice – especially when the staff are on friendly terms with every drop, including 10 wines available by the glass at any one time. It’s mostly Victorian producers, with back-up from a smattering of offerings with frequent-flyer points. And while it doesn’t label itself a natural-wine bar, the Gemini list has a thing for minimal-intervention wines from smaller producers – a good place to start is the Eleventh House white blend from Victoria’s Alpine Valleys, a floral, crisp and straight-up delicious blend of vermentino, pinot grigio and friulano. The rest of the drinks offering sticks to a mantra of “minimal but make it count”. The nature of the food menu makes Spanish vermouth on ice a very attractive proposition to kick off proceedings; ditto the seasonal G&T. 
Pouring a wine at Gemini in Melbourne
One of the dishes at Melbourne's Gemini
What to pair it withThe snack-happy menu sure knows how to get along with a drink or two. Start with a briny-perfect oyster, some Toolunka Creek marinated olives and throw in some spiced almonds, then perhaps move on to the potato and whey focaccia and add the smoked barramundi chip and dip on the way through. The Black Angus rump cap with mustard butter is a highlight, and it just so happens to go hand-in-hand with the braised and pickled fennel, hazelnut tarator and sala verde. There are also fries with roasted garlic aioli, plus a selection of cheeses, but if you’re struck with indecision, the Chef’s Selection ($65pp) is a very good idea.  
Why we love it If you could imagine the utopian ideal of the perfect neighbourhood bar in an area until now deprived of such a place, you’ve got Gemini. It helps that the owners are Coburg locals, so they were able to distil their neighbourhood knowledge into a place that actually services a need. So you can swing by early for excellent, silken Padre coffee with a pastry chaser, while post-close snackery is taken care of by the little retail space out back. Yes, you can take a bottle to go, but Gemini also has an array of delicious salty things including party-sized tins of potato crisps from Bonilla a la Vista and top-grade Spanish tinned fish from Pyscis Conserves, wrapped in artistic paper labels almost too pretty to tear open.
Make it fancyGot a special occasion to celebrate, and seven-plus friends to celebrate it with? It’s a great excuse to colonise the chef’s dining table out back. Facing the open kitchen, it’s a cutely rustic setting designed to feel like having dinner at a friend’s place and gives head chef Adi Suresh a chance to show off the skills picked up at the likes of Neighbourhood Wine, and Sydney’s Alberto’s Lounge and Mimi’s. Excellent wine matching is a given.
Who to takeGot a local Coburg mate who hasn’t discovered this place already? Take them, pronto, and never let them forget you found it first. In fact, the broader inner-north population should get behind Gemini to thank them for their act of community service.
Fancy snacks at Gemini in Melbourne