Scallops, clams, oysters and a pile of zucchini flowers. Everyone wants a seat at Rosheen’s table.
A night at Etta, a neighbourhood wine bar in Melbourne’s Brunswick East, is something to truly look forward to. Head chef Rosheen Kaul creates menus based on seasonality, but also her rich heritage and nostalgia – born in Singapore, Kaul’s background is a blend of Kashmiri, Chinese and Filipino. Kaul moved to Etta from Smith & Deli in 2020, and has helped it become one of the city’s best restaurants.
Kaul considers herself a “late entry” into the world of hospitality. While long holding a love for the restaurant scene, she studied psychology and neuroscience at university. When she wasn’t at school she was working at Jimmy Choo, until she ditched both science and fashion to follow her culinary passion. Though it wasn’t the easiest getting hired as a dish pig when her last job was in fashion, “they were like, well you’re a little bit fancy”, she eventually got her apprenticeship at Lee Ho Fook, a lauded modern Chinese restaurant in the Melbourne’s CBD, and then her breakout role as the chef de partie at Dinner By Heston.
In the kitchen, Kaul cooks fast and with flair, experimenting and learning with some of Australia’s best produce. But at home, Kaul’s cooking is much more relaxed. “Cooking at home is completely different to cooking professionally. I take my time and I cook really simple dishes. I cook quite traditionally at home, actually. A lot of really simple Chinese food. My go-to is egg white fried rice.”
One kind of cooking Kaul does love to do at home is for her family. Here we find out some of her go-to drinks and all-time favourite restaurants, and see her turn out a feast for the whole Kaul clan.
Home essentials
- Q.Best way to spend a Saturday night (when you’re not working)?
On that rare Saturday night off, I’ll definitely be splurging and showing some love to one of my favourite restaurants in Melbourne. You’ll find me either in a booth at Gimlet eating French fries with a glass of champagne or perched at the bar at Embla snacking on cured meats with something delicious from the Jura. Afterwards I’ll probably head to Above Board for some brilliant, thoughtful and delicious cocktails. I like an Aviation.
- Q.Go-to drink for when guests come over?
Negronis, always, or a highball if it’s a summery day.
- Q.Go-to entertaining dish?
There’s just something so fun about a shimmering pile of prawns on ice.
- Q.Drink you should always have in the fridge?
Champagne. There’s always something to celebrate.
- Q.What’s your entertainer archetype?
We often had large family gatherings when my family and I were living in Singapore. The Lunar New Year celebrations were my favourite time of year when we’d get together to feast, share gossip and play card games. The most important feature for me is an abundance of food. There are always fun, delicious snacks and canapés within reach and a big showstopper dish.
- Q.What makes a great event?
Coordinating your drinks to the flow of your meal. Starting all your guests off with some delicious aperitifs, wine through the meal and an amaro or digestif to finish. Even if your guests are strong red or white wine drinkers, have options that could potentially win them over – chilled light reds, rose or big white wines, so there’s something for everyone. The drink service should be as considered as the food.
- Q.Go-to tablescaping style?
I love beautiful crystal glassware and picking from my mum’s antique Chinese crockery. We generally eat in the garden so we’re already surrounded by lush nature, but lots of cut flowers in small vases or glasses are a beautiful way to fill a table.
Notable mentions
- Q.Best event you’ve hosted?
My birthday party two years ago. We had an endless flow of elderflower G&Ts and Campari spritzes and a whole lamb roasting on a spit. We bought beautiful flatbreads and dips from our favourite Turkish restaurant and had five kinds of gelato to finish. It was fabulous.
- Q.Best restaurant you’ve been to?
Belon in Hong Kong was mind blowing. A neo-Parisian restaurant executing the most beautiful, finessed yet approachable dishes in a plush bistro dining room. Here in Australia, I love the old-world glamour and perfect Cantonese cooking at Flower Drum.
- Q.Last dinner party you hosted?
I had a Sichuan-style crab boil, with huge king crab legs, scampi and prawns tossed in a spicy, garlicky, delicious butter and thrown directly onto the table. Heaps of icy beers and messy hands, so finger bowls were a must.
Let’s plan... An al fresco family feast
- Q.Who's coming?
My family and all of our pets.
- Q.The guest brief?
Don’t eat before you come.
- Q.Drink on arrival?
Champagne or a negroni. Dad will probably bring out the Coravin so we can try something special from his wine collection.
- Q.The pre-dinner mingle?
We’ll head out to the garden. It’s where I most like to entertain. I’ll usually bring out our Japanese hibachi grill and cook whatever produce is delicious and in season. I love cooking whole fish and crustaceans over binchotan charcoal with some icy cold Monsuta Okinawa Premium draft beer. For this occasion, we’ll start with something snacky and delicious. Fried zucchini flowers stuffed with scallop and drenched with chilli oil, oysters with a few different sauces and a pile of fresh prawns. We’ll be drinking beers and a bottle of Simonnet-Febvre Petit Chablis. Which is great with food.
- Q.The main event?
We’ll have a huge platter of Taiwanese-style beer house clams stir-fried with Thai basil with steamed rice. It’s so fun, interactive and delicious. We’ll be dining al fresco in the garden.
- Q.The decor?
The garden sets the most beautiful scene for a backdrop, and I’ll pick some flowers for the table. Keep it simple, natural and pretty.
