NOW EXPERIENCING:Wyno x Bodega

Sydney’s original rock ’n’ roll tapas haunt collides with a bar-bottle shop to offer killer snacks backed up by a wine offering that moves to the beat of the staff.

Why you go

Some 15 years ago, Bodega landed in Surry Hills when the neighbourhood was at the peak of its powers as Sydney’s hub for arts, culture, fashion and exceptional food and drink. The mini tapas bar made a name for itself with rockabilly stylings and small plates that landed punches in the flavour stakes while quietly revolutionising what it meant to snack in the city. We take forward-thinking two-bite plates for granted these days, but when Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate threw the doors open at their first venue (they’ve since followed up with Porteño, Humble bakery and Bastardo, among others) that kind of offer was a game-changer. 

Cut to today and Bodega has been shrunk down and slipped into the space housing Wyno, the group’s short-lived Italian-ish wine bar. Hence, Wyno x Bodega, a coming together that expands on the strengths of both. Along one length, behind glass doors, remains the bottle shop, stacked to the brim with an eclectic mix of local and French bottles, and supporting acts from Germany, Italy and Spain. Along the other runs a communal counter, the bar on one side, stools all around. Staff pour whatever they’ve got open, while the kitchen at the back, usually manned by just one chef, plays the hits from the Bodega menu. The result? The best of both worlds.

 

Why you stayThis room has a long history. In the past it made its name as bar-bottle shop 121BC, a place where you could drop in from the early afternoon, make new friends as you bumped elbows along the bar and taste new things the staff were only too happy to tell you about. Today, that same spirit remains. It’s fast and ever-changing, but never loose, thanks to the smarts of young-gun sommelier Georgie Davidson-Brown, who works to stock the cellar and shape the list to her modern tastes. Find a seat under the greenery and she’ll pour you whatever she can to suit your mood from whatever wine happens to be open that day. It could be weird and wonderful, like a Spanish Laderas de Leonila, which brings sherry grapes into the mix for a dry, saline opener, or maybe a chilled red from a cult producer in Hungary – which is to say, if you want to get weird, there’s plenty of scope. On the flip side, if you’re keen to sit on a Heaps Normal non-alcoholic beer or stay more local and approachable, the team will be happy to help. The snacks, meanwhile, can either keep the hunger at bay, or turn into a full meal, finished off by a slice of dark, beautiful Basque cheesecake.
What drink to orderBe prepared to put yourself in the hands of the staff. Tell them what mood you’re in, whether you’re thinking fresh and light, say, or bigger and bolder, and they’ll most likely have something open that fits the bill. If not, they may crack a freshie for you. If it’s a bottle you’re after, wander the shelves. You might find a new-release Mac Forbes riesling from the Yarra or a couple of unicorns from the Old World to sink your teeth into. To finish, the Italian amari liqueur range is generous: try a Citrange Mandarino from Sicily, infused with mandarin peel and rhubarb, to cleanse the palate.
What to pair it with It’s all about the olives and anchovies (a mix of white and regular) for starters, matched with bread from sibling Humble. Come 6:00pm, the kitchen starts cranking, and while there’s fun to be had with heftier plates such as Caribbean-style jerk chicken or charry garlic mushrooms topped with a fried egg, the signature fish fingers – a staple since the early days – are a must order. These aren’t the crumbed, frozen variety. Instead, they start with two pieces of garlicky sourdough toast, topped with raw kingfish, then layered cuttlefish ceviche on top with some raw onion to cut the richness. Don’t miss them.
Why we love it Every visit promises a different experience. Whether you drop in, have one drink and a bite, or book for dinner and make a night of it, you can count on trying something new and interesting. Plus, the communal table always holds the chance of making new friends while you’re at it.
Image of a cocktail on a bar
Don’t leave withoutThat cheesecake is something to write home about, but you shouldn’t leave without taking a turn through the bottle shop. Shelves are stocked with goodies from around the world, and you might just leave with a new favourite (or two) in hand.
Who to takeWyno x Bodega’s location near the major offices of Surry Hills means it’s popular with a creative crowd once they finish their shifts, but odds are that with the high proportion of fashion, tech, media and advertising firms in the area, you’ll be sat next to someone with a story or two to tell. It’s close quarters here, so bringing a group of more than three or four can be tough – best to keep it smaller to maximise the opportunity for interaction and to ensure those snacks and shared plates don’t get spread too thin.
image credits: Caroline McCredie