NOW EXPERIENCING:Wine & Larder

Wine & Larder, a welcome European-style outpost beyond the city fringes, is exactly what it says on the tin – a bar with a focus on fetching wines and a knack for the snacks to match.

A glass of wine at Wine & Larder
Why you goThis attractive Euro-style wine bar may be in the leafy Ashgrove neighbourhood, but the list on offer at Wine & Larder is anything but suburban. You’d expect nothing less with renowned sommelier Mark Whitaker and wife, Leah Shelton, at the helm. Wines are handily sorted under headings such as “crisp and clean”, where you’ll find the likes of a brisk txakoli from the Basque Country, and “complex, textural whites” for those who fancy a chenin blanc from Margaret River, say. The fit-out is smart, too. A classic timber bar dominates the light, airy space, while tables flank the windows looking out onto a vintage arcade where diners can sit alfresco. The kitchen’s knack with wine-friendly, bistro-style fare lifts it above the everyday, as does owner Whitaker’s presence on the floor. A wine tragic in the best of ways, he’s more than ready to advise on food and wine matches, made easy with an arsenal of 20-plus by the glass.
Why you stayYou can rarely hear the soundtrack at Wine & Larder. Locals and visitors from neighbouring suburbs converge here to kick back and chat over a glass or two, creating a convivial hubbub. Whitaker’s wine list has something for everyone and there’s plenty to chew over, particularly if you like to explore and take in a few lesser-known offerings. The list is nicely laid out – reds, for instance, are categorised under “on the lighter side”, “a little bit spicy” or “broad shouldered and bold”. Staff are friendly and attentive and the bar’s premium Gabriel, Riedel and Plumm glassware is switched to suit whatever you’re drinking, helping to get the most from each wine poured, served with complimentary Purezza sparkling water from the tap. This place could probably get by on the wine list alone, but vino-loving bites, such as pork and pistachio terrine with apple chutney, or brioche with a slab of chicken-liver parfait and cornichons, also help to keep tables busy. Be sure to book, particularly on weekends.
Table arrangement at Wine and Larder
Soup and wine at Wine and Larder
What drink to orderIf you’re keeping drinks classic you might choose something like the full-bodied Springs Road chardonnay from Kangaroo Island, or perhaps a gamay from France’s Beaujolais region. If you’re feeling more adventurous, a chilled red like the pinot meunier from Adelaide Hills winery Moorak could do the trick. Or perhaps an aromatic skin-contact amber like Lina Lool, a blend of malvasia, riesling and moscato from Victorian winemakers Quealy. These exact drops may not always be on pour – Whitaker turns the wines over fast – but, from Burgundian pinot noirs to Sardinian vermentinos, there’s always an intriguing selection. That also extends to apéritifs such as Spanish sherries and Aperol Spritz. El Jefe lager and the mid-strength Chaotic Good from local brewer Aether are both on tap should you favour a bracing brew instead.
What to pair it withKeep things low-key with a simple bowl of warm olives, or dig into a bowl of smashed spuds, the crisp, golden edges splashed with Champagne vinegar, served with saffron aïoli for dipping. Venture into French territory with rich shredded rabbit rillettes spread on thin baguette slices and topped with sweet-and-sour pickled apricot and raisins. Croquettes of potato and Spain’s sobrasada sausage, meanwhile, pack a proper spicy yet comforting punch, and silvery boquerones, the Spanish version of marinated anchovies, come out swimming in decent olive oil and a splash of sherry vinegar with golden peppers and slivers of crisp sourdough – a total treat with a glass of albariño white wine.
Albarino White Wine at Wine and Larder
The name of the Bistro Wine and Larder
Why we love itYou’d be happy to find this list anywhere, but to come across it in white-picket-fence Ashgrove makes us love it that little bit more.
Regular’s tipComing with mates? A bottle is always a good idea, but consider trying a few different wines by ordering by the glass from the more than 20-strong list. Matching wine choices with small plates of tasty treats is the optimal way to go here.
Don’t leave withoutChecking out the ranges of cheese and cured meats – there’s more on offer here than the usual paint-by-numbers assortment. Wine & Larder sources both independently, and fans of The Cheeseboard in Albion may recognise the fine work of cheese whisperer Wendy Downes. The cured meats are by Brisbane specialists Saison and Monsieur Saucisson – so you know you’re in for a treat.
Cheese and Meat at Wine and Larder