NOW EXPERIENCING:Wally’s

Read time 2 Mins

Posted 18 Sep 2024

By
Larissa Dubecki


The French-inspired setting at Wally’s in Albert Park

The wine list leans French and is packed with accessible drinking fun, complemented by the food-friendliest menu delivered in cosy corner digs steeped in serious design flair.

The entrance to new wine bar, Wally’s
Why you goPining for that sweet little cave du vin you stumbled across in Paris’s ninth arrondissement last summer? Wally’s is here to help. Hugging a street corner in Albert Park, this chic and compact place is so French it’s practically smoking a Gauloises and wearing a beret. Opened by wine merchant Baxter Pickard, it’s really more like an enabling device for his French wine habit, which stretches here to more than 300 bottles with some rare vintage gems and a whole lot of accessible drinking fun. He’s commandeered chef Damon McIvor, an alum of Waxflower and Vex, to command the food-friendliest menu, and the whole operation is steeped in some serious design flair. In short, it’s the bar equivalent of a triple threat and a hot contender for your drinking and dining dollar.
What drink to orderWe highly recommend going face-down in the wine list, but first have a cocktail. The appetite-piquing house Martini makes a hero of Four Pillars Olive Leaf gin and adds a dash of manzanilla sherry, while a Spritz of white rum and strawberry vermouth is tailor-made for the 5:00pm witching hour. Want a beer? The choice is tight, with the on-theme Peroni Red backed by Coopers Pale Ale and a dark ale by Bodriggy. The same can’t be said for a wine list that kicks off with a giddy collection of Champagne and friends (if you’re not up to hitting that bottle of Dom Pérignon 2004 vintage, there’s Krug by the glass for a smaller-format splash-out). There’s plenty of special gear on offer across old and new worlds, but while it’s a big spendy list, its shallow end exhibits an equal amount of care and thought for those of us without the keys to a trust fund.
There's a great range of wines at Wally’s in Melbourne
A variety of dishes served at Wally’s in Albert Park
What to eatSydney Rock oysters and sparkling are the obvious kick-off point here, but the slippery barbecued leek, bedded in an almond smoosh with a vigorous sprinkle of Aleppo pepper, has become the de facto house signature for a reason (not least because it’s the perfect excuse to order a glass of Chablis). Salt and vinegar dadinho de tapioca (Brazilian fried tapioca cubes) arrive in a blizzard of pecorino, and canapé-sized hashbrowns might be topped with smoked mussels and native curry leaf. Feel like going bigger? Sirloin in wine-spiked Bordelaise sauce with a side of potatoes in herby butter can definitely pass muster as dinner.
Why we love itSo, you thought a mirrored ceiling was the exclusive province of niche hotels in Japan? Not so. The smoky reflection from above adds a cinematic frisson to the room (go ahead, imagine you’re in a Jean-Luc Godard film) and enhances the design work of Collingwood’s Studio A.mi. It’s an un-shouty vision of brass and marble tabletops, coyly half-curtained windows and vintage Champagne buckets, with a row of bottles adding their own flair behind the velvet banquettes. It’s just the place to turn a quick drink into a three-hour session. The kerbside tables are equally alluring for the dog lovers who walk among us; the bar was named in honour of Baxter’s beloved pooch, and it’s appropriately pet-friendly. 
Wonderful interiors at Wally’s include a mirrored ceiling