NOW EXPERIENCING:The Source

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 23 Mar 2023

By
Alix Clark


You may come to Hobart’s Mona for its singular take on art, but you stay for lunch at The Source to enjoy artfully prepared Tassie goodness and an eye-popping, border-crossing wine list.

Why you goIf you like art with a side of controversy, Hobart’s Mona (Museum of Old and New Art) is the place to find it. And if you’d like to enjoy fine food and wine while you digest the eye-opening experience, a long lunch at on-site restaurant The Source will fit the bill. Of course, you can always skip the art proper and go straight to the table for an artful celebration of Tasmanian produce and globetrotting wines, but then you’d miss out on owner David Walsh’s unique take on the art world as well as the gallery’s incredible architecture.
Wine glass & dish at The Source
What drink to order

While the wines of Mona’s Moorilla Estate, along with those of David’s other winery, Domaine A in the nearby Coal River Valley, are covered here, at 81 pages, the scale of the drinks list at The Source is as impressive and boundary-crossing as the whole Mona enterprise. The two pages of beers are roughly split between Australia, including Mona’s own Moo Brews, and Europe, with a strong showing from Belgium. Tasmanian craft spirits such as Hartshorn Distillery’s Sheep Whey Vodka mingle with heavy-hitters like the 30-year-old Dun Bheagan Glenugie single malt from the Scottish Highlands. 

When it comes to wines, a generous range of half bottles gives diners the opportunity to dip into European stars like premium reds and whites from Burgundy without having to commit to a whole bottle. Page after page of the full bottles, meanwhile, are devoted to varieties divided up by country of origin, ranging in price from the perfectly reasonable, such as the 2015 Marion’s Vineyard Chardonnay from the Tamar Valley ($60) to pass the smelling salts – we’re looking at you, Penfolds Grange – and that’s even before you get to the large-format bottles.

At some point during proceedings, raise a glass of Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon to David Walsh – apparently it’s his favourite drop. 

 

What to pair it withThe food philosophy at The Source is one of sustainability with a focus on vegetables – David’s wife, artist-curator Kirsha Kaechele, runs a garden-based education program in schools around the state – and wild meats like venison and line-caught fish. Smaller dishes include roast baby beetroot with goat’s curd, broad beans, blood orange and mezcal dressing, or a cheese soufflé with a seasonal herb salad, while main courses might include a roast-hemp-seed risotto with charred vegetables and linguine with charred asparagus and spanner crab.
Image of food and glass at The Source
Sitting arrangement at The Source
Why we love itEverything about the world of Mona is over the top and The Source is no exception. Named for the giant John Olsen painting that graces the ceiling of the lobby, the restaurant is an art gallery in its own right. Glass-topped tables are shiny gold and contain objects curated by Kirsha, such as a feather necklace made by a local Aboriginal elder. On the balcony, “living tables” originally created for David and Kirsha’s wedding are topped with moss, herbs and succulents, and the waitstaff are experts at nestling plates and glasses among the plants. Views over the Derwent are stunning, and glimpses of the gallery’s accommodation pavilions are just visible through the trees.
Don't leave withoutLight artist James Turrell’s singular work is a full-body experience and highly recommended. Book a session in Unseen Seen and immerse yourself in pulsating light or spend time in ‘Event Horizon’, a seemingly infinite space awash with an ever-changing luminous glow. Both will leave you lost for words. 
Make it fancyBook into the Posh Pit on the Mona ferry from Hobart to start your day with a glass of something nice and a canapé or two away from the riff-raff. After lunch, extend your time at Mona by staying in one of the eight luxury pavilions – each named for an Australian artist and featuring their work. Wake up with Brett Whiteley or Sidney Nolan, enjoy a swim in the infinity pool, then breakfast at The Source.
Lake View of The Source
Who to take Lunch at The Source can be as fancy as you like so wear your most outrageous outfit – David Walsh favours velvet blazers and high-tops painted with genitalia – and go with an open mind. You don’t need to be an art lover to enjoy everything Mona has to offer, but whatever you experience, you’re sure to be talking about it for days. This eye-opening restaurant is perfect for a fancy date, a special anniversary or event, or a lunch with anyone wanting the full Mona experience.