NOW EXPERIENCING:The Royal Hotel

This historic West Aussie pub in central Perth has been restored and reimagined for a new generation, effortlessly combining nostalgia with contemporary food and drinks.

Why you goKnocking back a cold one on The Royal Hotel’s first-floor veranda feels like one of the most Perth things you could do, yet if it wasn’t for the graft of publican John Parker, this grand gold rush-era watering hole would still be boarded up and wallowing in obscurity. While resurrecting a derelict pub fits the description for thinking big, it’s Parker’s knack for sweating the little things that’s made The Royal 2.0 such a triumph. Original features such as leadlight windows, the grand staircase and timber flooring in the two-storey building have been meticulously restored. Tasteful Westraliana and contemporary art are hung throughout. The drinks list has been put together with similar care. As far as $13 million renovation projects go, The Royal is a masterclass in doing things right.
Why you stayThink of The Royal as a precinct rather than just a pub, although the pub offering in question is a winner and effortlessly combines the nostalgia of the past with a food-and-drink package that’s as contemporary as it is accessible. Reflecting the west’s current infatuation with all things grape-based, the ground-floor public bar has been rebadged as Willi’s, a wine-centric bar and eatery. For those in the mood to dine rather than drink, Fleur’s Japanese-accented cooking has plenty to please the hungry. Regardless of which area you decide to call home, likeable service is a given.
breakfast on a table
What drink to orderParker and the rest of the Royal family have an appreciation for the Wide World of Drinks, and it shows. Cocktails run the gamut from a chilli-spiked Hot Tommy’s Margarita and new-school Espresso Martini to Spritzes galore, including non-alcoholic options. The international wine offering is strong throughout the venue, although Willi’s pushes the boat out via a list that leans hardest into unconventional wine styles. In a nod to both Western Australian brewing history and the everyman nature of the pub, Swan Draught is a permanent tap offering, is poured alongside hazy pale ales, passionfruit sours and other frequently rotated craft beers.
What to pair it withSurf and turf, fish of the day, flatbread and dips – familiarity might underpin The Royal’s all-day menu, but creative flourishes nudge Australian and British pub-grub classics into new territory. Native herbs and spices embellish fried chicken and raw kingfish, soy-roasted pumpkin is deployed in the sides, and the burger is available with vegan Beyond Meat beef patties. Specials throughout the week deliver mighty bang-for-buck. If picking and choosing feels like a bridge too far, the set menus at Fleur takes the decision-making out of dinner with a drink-matching option also available
Make it fancyWhile bookings are pretty much mandatory for Fleur, its eight-seat wine bar is always open to walk-in guests – particularly those primed for big-night-out fun. Whether you buy it by the bump or tin, fancy Siberian caviar and Yarra Valley salmon roe arrive alongside sourdough crumpets and other accompaniments. Otherwise, the bar menu also features a luxe prawn-toast remake that introduces sweet scallop meat to the party. Bottles of high-end Champagne seem like a fitting match for snacking of this calibre, although big-ticket bottles of all wine styles are studded throughout the list. Looking for a little more VIP privacy? Book the karaoke room and really make a night of it. 
Who to takeAnyone and everyone. Or even just roll solo. The Royal is for everyone and does exactly what it says on its (heritage-listed) box. A central location near public transport hubs makes the pub a convenient pit-stop for commuters on the way home. And lunch on the veranda is an option for city workers who don’t want to wait till the end of the day to get their Royal fix. It’s also a solid go-to for anyone catching a game or show at nearby Perth Arena.
image credits: Laura Moseley & Rebecca Mansell