NOW EXPERIENCING:The Roosevelt

More than a decade since opening, The Roosevelt’s glitzy ’50s character and cocktails made with an air of theatre ensure it remains one of the city’s finest places to bend the elbow.

Seating at The Roosevelt
Why you go

The Roosevelt has been going strong in Potts Point for 10 years now, and shows no signs of slowing with age. A follow-up to Eau-de-Vie, one of Sydney’s most influential cocktail bars throughout the 2010s, The Roosevelt launched at a time when hipster culture and the city’s thirst for venues throwing back to golden eras of drinking culture – in this case the bars and jazz clubs of the ’50s – was reaching a peak. When the doors opened, they did so while Mad Men was gracing screens, bartenders came with suspenders and waxed moustaches, and liquid nitrogen, flames and cocktails billowing smoke were becoming an increasingly common part of a night out. A decade on, The Roosevelt may no longer be right at the forefront of Sydney’s bar culture, but it has admirably remained true to its roots. 

And why wouldn’t it? New York circa the 1950s is as good a theme as any, setting a tone of, in The Roosevelt’s words, “an era when drinking was taken seriously”. Here, long lunches are chased with Martinis, and whiskies are poured long into the evening. To go with it, the food veers classic; oysters with Champagne dressing segueing to dishes that range from sirloin steak with whisky mustard to oozy baked Camembert. A night out that starts and ends here is a night well spent.

Why you stayAttention to detail comes with the territory here. There’s the jazz on the speakers, the marble-topped bar is immaculate, with bottles of whisky lined up behind, the glasses are clean and polished, the patterned wallpaper and carpet add to the grandeur, and leather booths, soft curtains and lamps set on high and low tables bring a sense of opulence and intimacy throughout. Staff are invariably part of the show here, too. From the warm greetings at the entrance to the flawless table service, there’s an air of sophistication that extends to all guests who are welcomed with a smile, a nod and more than a couple of winks. Order a drink, and whether its liquid nitrogen snaking its way around the bar or staff torching cinnamon quills and marshmallows, or shaking a tin (or two) with added panache, a sense of theatre is standard. But it’s not all about showmanship; the drinks are as serious as they get – balanced, clever and downright delicious. No wonder they’ve racked up so many awards along the way.
The bar at The Roosevelt
Cocktail at The Roosevelt
What drink to orderIt has to be The Continental. A fresh, crisp aperitif-style opener with a boozy kick, this cocktail once took out Best Gentleman’s Drink at the World Class Australia competition and fits the tone here perfectly. Much like a Vesper, this Martini combines gin and vodka (the former Plymouth, the latter Absolut Elyx), then takes it a step further with Cocchi Americano vermouth-style aperitivo and a dose of France’s yellow Chartreuse for herbal complexity. The liquid nitrogen leaves its mark on this drink, too, which is chilled in a billowing plume, then garnished with honeydew melon and a lemon twist for a final hit of fragrance. If that’s not your flavour, an airy take on a G&T, garnished with torched marshmallow and rosemary, may well be, or a Champagne from the ample list, or even a Nitro Colada, dressed up with gelato, flamed meringue and all the trimmings.
What to pair it withThe words next to The Continental mention it’s a fine match with oysters, but so is most of the drinks list, so lean into the New York theme and down a half dozen. If you’re after more substantial eats, it’s hard to go past the crisp-skinned salmon, or grilled king prawns with a hint of garlic and a whack of chilli.
Why we love itA bar that pushes so hard to make things exciting and eye-catching might sometimes wear out its welcome, but The Roosevelt has managed to stick around thanks to how well the staff sell it. That’s no small trick, and the thread tying back to the site’s early days in the ’40s and ’50s as one of the country’s foremost nightclubs – with a reputation for glitz, glamour and the odd dose of debauchery – is one to admire. In fact, it’s where the place gets its name, and it’s certainly mighty appealing to have drinks in a space where Sammy Davis Jr, Frank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald once performed.
Ambience at The Roosevelt
Dining at The Roosevelt
Regular’s tipIt’s worth making yourself a regular if only to delve deep into the mammoth whisky selection The Roosevelt keeps on hand, but this venue’s masterclasses are just as strong a draw, ranging from whisky tastings to cocktail sessions. And in true speakeasy style, The Roosevelt keeps a few secrets, one being that there’s a hidden room with a bookable poker table for up to 12 guests. Gather a clan and reserve it for a night fuelled by fine food and the thrill of chasing a straight flush when the last of your chips are down on the table.
Who to takeFriends, colleagues, lovers – there’s a spot for each and every one of these at The Roosevelt, and the menu flexes enough in all directions to suit the occasion. Warm evenings see tables dressed with flowers line the footpath out front, late nights and low lights encourage dates to swap glances between sips, and spaces with long tables and separate rooms mean bringing a crowd is made simple. This is a Sydney standby with solid hospitality bones. Here’s to the next 10 years.
Drinks at The Roosevelt