What to pair it withPasta, of course, but there are painful decisions to be made, including whether to go for the pesto lasagne or cacio e pepe gnocchi with cheese and black pepper. In that regard, a welcome tactic sees each dish offered in three sizes (entrée, main course and family), making the sharing easier and the options broader. Cast your net wide for bowls of chilli-laced crab spaghetti with crunchy toasted breadcrumbs or orecchiette with a punchy anchovy undercurrent, charred broccoli and Italy’s pecorino cheese – or jealously guard your rich campanelle Bolognese from thieving fingers. Support players include a keen range of Italian-hearted snacks, such as the chart-topping Gilda of skewered white anchovy, olives and guindilla chilli (the perfect appetite-kicker with a G&T) or a plate of cured meats heaving with soft pink slices of mortadella, a grunty salami and salty Spanish jamón ham with the bandmates of pickles and puffed gnocco fritto pastry. Main plates include a fish and chips that will broach no criticism thanks to spankingly fresh fish and fat-but-not-too-fat chips.