NOW EXPERIENCING:Stokehouse Pasta & Bar

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 11 May 2023

By
Larissa Dubecki


The food and wine credentials are high at this beachside eatery, but accessibility is the buzzword, seen across its rocking all-day Italian menu and affordable snappy wine list.

Why you goA Melbourne byword for stylish dining since 1990, Stokehouse is the place for conspicuous consumption of seafood and Champagne, perched a floor above St Kilda beach. It’s gorgeous, dahling, but we’re here to celebrate the new ground-floor sibling where the price of admission is less, but the rewards are just as high. The space formerly known as Pontoon was reborn in late 2022 as Stokehouse Pasta & Bar, and represents a solid union of beach vibes, a rocking all-day Italian menu and a snappy wine list where every bottle is $79 – a brilliant tactic that might broaden the grape horizons of a thirsty audience.
Why you stayHugging the boardwalk metres from the sand, this prime piece of real estate has been remodelled into a place with a strong tidal pull. Even when Melbourne’s fickle weather turns the bay into 50 shades of grey, there’s a sunny Mediterranean feel inside, conjured by the so-hot-right-now brick-tiled floors, a brass-panelled open kitchen and wooden latticework ceiling. Settled on a seafoam-blue banquette looking out to sea, it’s not hard to feel the glow of la dolce vita. 
What drink to orderAnything that takes the pressure out of ordering a wine is fine with us, and the Stokehouse Pasta & Bar wine list is a corker, with all 85 bottles priced at $79. It’s food-friendly stuff, with separate headings for skin-contact gear and natural sparkling wines, and the tantalising possibility of snaffling a bargain (enlisting a wine-savvy staff member will help your chances). The rise of the chilled red is apparent in the five-strong category, while a healthy division between Italian and Australian drops (plus excursions to South Africa, France and Hungary) encourages diners to look beyond the pinots and chardonnays to more exotic grapes such as a skin-contact white albana or a Piedmontese red dolcetto. It’s equally a venue that cries out for cocktails, so busy yourself with a classic – from custom-made Martinis to Negronis and Margaritas – while the house Spritz goes floral and delicate with Italy’s bittersweet amaro liqueur, orange bitters, white peach and jasmine soda.
What to pair it withPasta, of course, but there are painful decisions to be made, including whether to go for the pesto lasagne or cacio e pepe gnocchi with cheese and black pepper. In that regard, a welcome tactic sees each dish offered in three sizes (entrée, main course and family), making the sharing easier and the options broader. Cast your net wide for bowls of chilli-laced crab spaghetti with crunchy toasted breadcrumbs or orecchiette with a punchy anchovy undercurrent, charred broccoli and Italy’s pecorino cheese – or jealously guard your rich campanelle Bolognese from thieving fingers. Support players include a keen range of Italian-hearted snacks, such as the chart-topping Gilda of skewered white anchovy, olives and guindilla chilli (the perfect appetite-kicker with a G&T) or a plate of cured meats heaving with soft pink slices of mortadella, a grunty salami and salty Spanish jamón ham with the bandmates of pickles and puffed gnocco fritto pastry. Main plates include a fish and chips that will broach no criticism thanks to spankingly fresh fish and fat-but-not-too-fat chips.
Why we love itYou can consider Stokehouse Pasta & Bar the accessible version of the big bling of upstairs Stokehouse. The food and wine credentials are high, but accessibility is the buzzword here (that certainly extends to the express weekday lunch deal of pasta, bread and wine for $30). And for those who like to dine with their environmental credentials intact, this is one of Melbourne’s green-leading restaurants, with a mammoth compost system making short work of food waste and a network of geothermal piping taking care of heating and cooling.
Regular’s tipThe broad deck with its umbrella-shaded tables is the perfect place on a sunny day. There’s a lot to recommend kicking back with a cold bevvy while watching rollerbladers terrorise pedestrians along the boardwalk and all the action of the beach beyond. It’s pooch-friendly, too, but get there early – it’s a no-bookings space.
Who to takeIt’s just across the road from two of St Kilda’s best attractions, so factor in a visit if you’re seeing a gig at the Palais Theatre or if you’ve been getting an adrenaline fix with the family at Luna Park.
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
image credits: Tom Blachford and Arianna Leggiero (food).