NOW EXPERIENCING:Snack Man
Friday: 2:00 PM – 12:00 AM
Phone
No phone
Website
snack-man.com
Instagram
@snackmanbris

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 06 May 2022

By
Fiona Donnelly


Snack Man is no conventional wine bar – pairing an extraordinary Euro-centric vino list with dishes from across China, it’s the place to come for an adventurous ride.

Snack Man's Bar Interiors
Why you goAs you’d expect from its name, there are stacks of top eats at Snack Man. Owners Cameron and Jordan Votan are the brothers behind Happy Boy and Kid Curry, Snack Man’s hip, detour-worthy neighbours. Happy Boy draws in crowds for its regional Chinese fare and all-Australian wine list. Kid Curry wins praise for its take on curries from around the globe, and is no slouch on the vino front. At Snack Man, the small plates are drawn from across China. The proactive staff here are happy to track down a wine pairing to make the house-made pork sausage taste even better, or pinpoint a primo pairing for slippery prawn wontons splashed with soy and chilli oil, or find something to drink alongside your crisp-fried chicken and mouth-numbing Sichuan sauce. And while a big part of the fun here is in experimenting to find matches for the often-spicy dishes on offer, the major reason you’re here is for the extraordinary collection of European wine. If Snack Man is starting to sound like a very different kind of wine bar, that’s because it is. Maybe it should be called Drink King, the title for the list of some of what’s on pour. There’s no actual listing of the 500 or so bottles kept here – you’ll need to ask if there’s something you feel might float your boat.
Why you stayIt’s not just the snacks that are singular. The décor gives traditional wine-bar interiors a swerve. It’s hard-edged, it’s noisy, it’s quite dark and just a little bit glam. There’s zero adornment – no knick-knacks or artworks. It’s all polished-concrete flooring, a handsome bar topped with black and white marble, jutting mezzanine and big street-front windows looking out onto a sharp alfresco area and some trees festooned with lights. There’s an A4 paper menu – one side snacks, the other wine – but just look up and you’ll find by-the-glass options projected onto the back wall. There’s also a 30-strong list of glass pours. You can rely on there always being a buzz at Snack Man. More often than not it’s full of smart thirtysomethings exploring Euro wines, both lo-fi and classic, many drawn from France, Germany and Italy. 
What drink to orderWhichever wine is recommended. Too easy an answer? It’s always fun to try something new. The Votan brothers love rieslings and gamays, which usually hold up well against the spice in the dishes. There’s always a good selection of chardonnay and pinot noir, too. Or how about branching out with a glass of Basque txakoli or perhaps a dry moscato from Piedmont? Orange-wine fans might prefer a rather pricey pour of vin jaune from the Jura by Domaine Rolet or a glass of Gravner ribolla. Three cocktails make the cut, along with a Summer Spritz, a fruity mix of plum apéritif, peach, passionfruit and prosecco. Beers? Try the Happy Boy lager, or an Aether pale ple. Something else? Sit up at the bar, chat and show interest in what’s afoot and you’ll be offered tastings of whatever wines are on pour.
Drinks and bar pairings
What to pair it withSnack Man’s one-page menu crams in a huge variety of dishes – from dumplings and filled steamed buns to larger plates of noodles and fried rice and Jiangsu-style pork meatballs to steamed fish fillet in a soy, shallot and ginger sauce and, of course, that perennial dessert favourite, deep-fried ice-cream. The restaurant is a surprisingly good option for people with allergies, too. Many dishes are gluten-free or can be on request, and a number are vegan, or can be customised easily. The xianbing pan-fried pies topped with pork floss and green onion always hit the spot and the grilled lamb skewers dialed up with cumin and chilli will rock your world. Need more of a feed? Opt for something like the dandan mian noodles with a spicy beef and sesame sauce – like a super-tasty Asian take on spag Bol. Or simply work your way through the dumplings section, starting with sticky Shanghai-style mushroom parcels and finishing up with soup-filled xiao long bao buns. You can’t really go wrong here.
Regular’s tipRegulars who are deeply into wine know to always ask venue manager Antoine Heurtier what’s new, and what’s being held in the back room. Some bottles are too rare or made in such small quantities they don’t even reach the wine wall. A small number of longtime fans also know you can lay your hands on a salt-and-pepper lobster if you order it a few days ahead.
Who to takeIf it’s date night, reserve a table in the quieter mezzanine area overlooking the bar below (if it’s not already nabbed by a group booking, that is). Mates catching up after work? This is a versatile space and it’s easy to add to communal tables if more pals turn up than expected. Snack Man attracts a savvy local crowd, but it’s also popular with an older, more affluent clientele, who come for the wines, and end up enjoying the snacks and perhaps the energy in play.