NOW EXPERIENCING:Shabooh Shoobah

Brunswick West locals rejoiced when they got this neighbourhood bar – a welcoming spot with wine-friendly food and a match for all comers, whether that’s fashionably funky or more old school.

Shabooh Shoobah Melbourne - A Feel of Italian and Greek Cafés
Why you goYou can tell this is a place with pedigree straight off the bat. It’s the attention to detail, whether that’s in the joinery style of the timber bar and the vintage pendant lights, which give this former butcher shop the feel of the Italian and Greek cafés of the 1960s once common in Brunswick West. Or perhaps it’s the short, smart drinks list that nods to trends rather than being driven by them. This quiet confidence at Shabooh Shoobah (yes, it’s named after the 1982 INXS album) comes from the experience of the owners, who also run Lygon Street’s Heartattack and Vine and Wide Open Road café in Brunswick. You can tell they know what they’re doing and who they’re doing it for. And while it has clearly been created for wine- and food-savvy locals who, until now, have had nothing like it in the neighbourhood, Shabooh Shoobah is the kind of local that makes you feel like one even when you’re not. The low-key friendly service supports that vibe, as do the regulars whose unmistakable gratitude for this bar in their neighbourhood is contagious.
Why you stay

Shabooh Shoobah is spread across two shopfronts, both with large windows onto the street, giving a great sense of space that encourages you to sit back and see where the night takes you. One room has inviting red banquettes, a splash of colour against the artfully weathered walls. There’s more seating around the sizeable timber and marble bar in the other room, which doubles as the kitchen and DJ booth. Music here is vinyl-driven with the dial switched to eclectic – droning electric guitars and angsty vocals might be followed by sweeter, sunnier unplugged sounds or good-time Italo disco. 

The kitchen is a pretty basic affair, though the flavours emerging from it are anything but. It’s all wine-friendly stuff, whether you’re talking the gildas, little skewers spiked with marinated artichoke, quail egg, spicy pickled peppers and a wedge of Manchego cheese, or a sensational combination of creamy mozzarella-like stracciatella teamed with braised peppers and crisp curry leaves. Something meatier, perhaps? Try the excellent Polish sausage served with witlof and mustard. 

It’s easy to pick a wine match from the two-page list. It divides its time mainly between Victoria and Europe, so you might find an Australian vermentino rubbing shoulders with a citrusy catarratto from Sicily. And given the bar’s local status, it caters to a range of tastes with funky skin-contact wines alongside the more old-school refined drops. There are around a dozen options by the glass, though bottle prices are kept at very reasonable levels so it won’t take much convincing to treat yourself and scale up to a bottle of decent Burgundy or sparkling rosé. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself lingering here past the quick glass of wine you’d intended. It’s a place of subtle pleasures that reveal themselves over time.

Shabooh Shoobah Seating Around The Sizeable Timber and Marble Bar in Melbourne
Shabooh Shoobah Melbourne Kitchen
What drink to orderThe cocktails here are definitely worth considering. They all have a European leaning so are stirred rather than shaken, favour bitter over sweet and are smartly presented with minimal garnishes in lovely glasses. The crowd-pleasers like Negronis, Americanos and Aperol Spritzes are there, but the pick of the bunch is the Fig Leaf Rebujito, a thoroughly delicious and thirst-quenching little Spanish number that combines sherry, lemon, lime and soda and is garnished with a fig leaf that wraps around the inside of the glass. Amaro fans should check out the collection sitting on a tray on the bar and for those who just need a cleansing draught beer, there’s Coburg Lager on tap.