NOW EXPERIENCING:Olympus

The hottest Hellenic restaurant to land in Sydney since its chef-restaurateur opened his eastern suburbs stalwart, Olympus brings spirited Greek-accented drinks and eats to Redfern.

Looking out to the centrepiece of the restaurant with a retractable roof
Why you go It’s new, it’s Greek, it’s big, it’s buzzy. It’s a light-filled, all-day drinking-and-dining experience, with an all-welcome attitude. Come for a glass and a plate, or stay for the whole nine yards. Olympus is the hottest Hellenic restaurant to have landed in Sydney since, well, chef-restaurateur Jonathan Barthelmess opened his last Greek restaurant, Apollo, in Potts Point over a decade ago. 
Why you stay Olympus does lots of things and it does them well, from the excellent food and drink offerings to the open-plan design and friendly service. As you enter, you’ll see the kitchen hard at work stretching filo pastry by hand, frying cheese and grilling sardines. From the bar, you get a bird’s-eye view of the courtyard, centred around a gigantic, hot-pink bougainvillea planted right in the middle. On clear days, the glass roof opens to create a stunning open-air dining room. It’s even more thrilling when it storms and you’re safely inside eating olives and drinking a glass of chilled red. 
What drink to orderThere’s a strong focus on Greek wines and spirits here. Check out the Ouzo Colada cocktail – a light and playful take on the Piña Colada combining rum, pineapple and lime juices, coconut cream and whipped chickpea water (if this one’s new to you, the meringue-like substance is called “aquafaba”, and it can turn any cocktail into an airy confection without using egg white) with a dash of ouzo for that liquorice hit. The Plotino Margarita – tequila, kumquat-flavoured triple sec and lime – contains a lick of Greek mastic liqueur, which adds a sweet, woody savour. Many of the wines are imported directly from Greece, such as the heady and aromatic 2022 Kechris Tear of the Pine retsina assyrtiko – a herbaceous white wine that’s particularly delicious with a serve of hand-cut chips fried in olive oil. The locally made wines tend to have a Greek twist, too, such as Victorian winemaker Owen Latta’s rosé, made just for the venue (look for it on the wine list under Latta Vino Olympus Rosé) and perfect with small dishes such as the fried zucchini and barrel-aged feta.
Holding a couple of chilled bottles of Greek white wine
What to eatThere’s no dedicated bar menu here. Instead, Olympus offers the entire restaurant menu bar-side, so you can stay in the heart of the action. The concept is Greek grillhouse, executed by head chef Ozge Kalvo (former sous-chef at Marrickville’s favourite new-wave Middle Eastern restaurant, Baba’s Place). Expect the likes of creamy fava bean dip with herby, oily village bread; soft and bitey feta cheese; homestyle Greek salad; herb-packed dolmades, and lamb meatballs served alongside lightly pickled onions and a slash of hot mustard. If you’re feeling particularly hungry, you can order a whole suckling lamb to have with your Olympus rosé. Just breezing through for a Santorini Martini and single oyster? That’s fine, too.
Who to takeWhile the restaurant is perfect for larger groups (the food is very focused on sharing and feasting) the bar is better for groups of two. It’s darker and more intimate, and designed in such a way that you can hear everything your drinking and dining buddy is saying, but not the conversations of those around you – perfect for catch-ups with old friends or fresh-relationship date night.
Regular’s tipWhile making a booking for the bar is advised to avoid missing out on a spot, Olympus also welcomes walk-ins.