NOW EXPERIENCING:Niky
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@niky.au

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 16 Feb 2023

By
Fiona Donnelly


This polished, pocket-sized newcomer in inner-city Newstead offers drinkers a tasty point of difference, matching new-wave wines with thoughtful, skilfully composed snacks.

Seating at Niky
Why you goInspired by its owners’ visits to New York, Hobart and Melbourne, this Newstead bar is a flag-waver for low-intervention wines. With just 28 seats, it’s tiny but feels as mighty as its worthy mission: to provide an approachable, welcoming space for all comers, whatever their level of wine knowledge. Niky is the handiwork of former stockbroker Zac Lazarac, who owns nearby Salt Coffee Roasters, and his partner and co-owner, Nicole Black. The bar is named for Nicole, who provided the nudge and creative vision to open this gem when an unusual space became available. The former garage isn’t straightforward to find and signage is minimal. First-timers should aim for the corner of Commercial Road and Doggett Street, then head in the direction of Gasworks Plaza and look out for the rosy glow.
Why you stayThe moodily lit, terracotta-hued space may once have been a parking zone, but you’d never guess it. Inviting and intimate, the compact interiors are beautifully textured, with hand-rendered walls and arched backlit shelves lined with top-notch natural vinos, and a handsome 12-seater cement bar poised centre stage. Spilling out onto the pavement are a couple of high tops with comfortable stools close enough to the bifold doors for al fresco drinkers to feel part of the action. There’s no menu or wine list – drinks and snacks are chalked on a blackboard at the back above the tiny open kitchen. And the pace at which wine and food offerings turn over here is seen in the number of smudge marks on the board by the end of an evening. Your fellow drinkers are likely to rotate often, too. Nearby apartment dwellers bring a local vibe, yet Niky also draws hopefuls from across town. It’s a no-bookings joint, but you’re unlikely to have to wait long for a spot to sit.
Customers enjoying at Niky
Wine bottles displayed at Niky
What drink to order

It’s all about wine here, always well-chosen and with an interesting backstory – perhaps about the winemaker or the methods they use. The labels are largely new wave and mostly Australian – around 70%, the rest hailing from further afield. You might find a red from Tasmanian producer Ghost Rock, say, or a Beaujolais from a promising young French winemaker. Choose from what’s on pour by the glass, or find a bottle you like the look of – the staff are happy to offer a taste. All are priced between $40 and $80 so you don’t need to fret about accidentally choosing something ultra-luxe.

Cocktails are limited to pre-batched Spritzes from Delinquente’s Bizzarro Australiano range, while the beers are usually from Queensland brewers such as Brisbane’s Range Brewing, or Balter from the Gold Coast. It all depends on what catches the team’s collective eye. But, for the most part, you’re at Niky for a good wine time.

 

What to pair it withChef Jianne Jeoung has worked in some of Brisbane’s top restaurants, but her focus at Niky is on snack-style dishes that can be eaten with your fingers, or maybe a fork or spoon, leaving drinkers with a hand to swirl what’s in their fine Plumm glass. But Jianne’s creativity shines through regardless. Alongside daily-made pasta, perhaps a twirl of tagliatelle topped with tomato sauce and creamy Italian stracciatella cheese, you might find the likes of duck lettuce cups, or a fork-able crudo of ocean trout topped with beetroot and dill, dressed with a vinaigrette subtly accented with sesame oil. Two-bite snacks such as salami or anchovy toasts – actually more like fingers of fried bread – come out with fresh fig slivers to sweeten the deal, while a spicy beef tartare brings a hit of heat as a foil to that chilled gamay, perhaps.
A dish getting prepared at Niky
Dish served at Niky
Why we love itIt takes boldness and vision to see the potential in a humble garage space – essentially a concrete box – and then conjure something as sophisticated and friendly as this pocket-sized community-focused bar.
Regular’s tip

Keep an eye on Niky’s Instagram for details of kitchen takeovers. Jianne Jeoung’s partner Leaham Claydon is head chef at Yoko, a buzzy Japanese go-to by the river at Howard Smith Wharves, and the talented pair has been known to host the occasional pop-up at Niky, complete with a seven-course tasting menu. 

Thursday is Jianne’s menu-tasting day, so you might get to try a few of the dishes that are about to hit the menu.

 

Who to takeThis is the kind of neighbourhood spot that’s relaxed enough to pop into for a glass and a snack while you’re out walking your pooch, but special enough to provide a mellow backdrop for a second or third date. Knock-off drinks? Catch-up with friends? They work beautifully here, too.
Wine bottles at Niky