NOW EXPERIENCING:Maydanoz

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 05 Jan 2023

By
Alexandra Carlton


Turkey comes to Sydney’s CBD in an energetically modern restaurant where the flavours of the Aegean are celebrated in a killer cocktail list and a menu that’s a share-friendly snack-fest.

Interiors at Maydanoz
Why you goTurkish house of generosity Efendy in Balmain was a true if-you-know-you-know Sydney restaurant. No one who tried chef Somer Sivrioglu’s bountiful mezze feasts – particularly the famous breakfasts that included a seemingly limitless parade of borek, cheeses, dips, fruits and breads – forgot it in a hurry, and everyone told their friends. Sadly, Efendy didn’t survive the Great Covid Hospitality Cull, but in its place we have the modern, much sexier and more boundary-pushing Maydanoz (meaning “parsley”). Its very central CBD location near Wynyard Station may not be the most picturesque spot in the city, but once you step inside and sink into an Aegean-blue banquette, or pull up a high stool at the bar, you’re suddenly in Bodrum, so who cares what’s going on with the Sydney buses just outside the window? The food, which is predominantly vegetarian, gets a ton of the attention, but the drinks – including Turkish-tinted cocktails, a rip-roaring raki list and some intriguing Turkish wines – deserve their share of the limelight.
Why you stayDelete any ideas you have of Turkish restaurants being uniformly traditional; everything here from the smouldering fit-out – velvet, brass and marble, a neon-lit wine library behind the bar – to the music (smooth house) is energetically modern. But what isn’t different is the immutable Turkish hospitality: everything is designed to share and your comfort is key.
The bar section at Maydanoz
A glass of cocktail at Maydanoz
What drink to order

The drinks are a huge part of the offering here, particularly the Turkish-inflected cocktails. Long day at work? Slap yourself (lovingly and metaphorically, of course) round the cheeks with the Turkish Coffee and Date Martini, made with vodka, Kahlua, and triple-strained Turkish coffee scented with cardamom. Something more refreshing? A round of Maydanoz Spritzes for the table – made with pomegranate liqueur, Chartreuse liqueur, prosecco and molasses – will transport you to a summer’s day on the Aegean from sip one. Or tick a few vitamin boxes with the house special: the Zümrüt, made with parsley (oh, and rum).

Plenty of thought has been put into the Turkish wine list, too, notably in the minerally whites from Menderes and savoury reds from the southern Aegean. And a glass or shared bottle of “lion’s milk” raki – the mighty anise-flavoured spirit of Turkey – works at any point in the meal.

What to pair it with

Vegetarians, step up to the mic. Almost everything on this shareable snack-fest of a menu is meat-free, and sacrifices absolutely nothing on the flavour front for it. 

The smoked beetroot sandwich with rhubarb and shavings of barrel-aged feta arrives as two little lipstick-red bullets of earthy juiciness, held together by sharply cut crispbread. Definitely get the imam bayildi – when do “Turkish” and “eggplant” appearing together in the same dish result in anything but excellence? 

And, yes, you will be able to convince your sceptical meat-eater friends to come along – the scattering of flesh-based dishes towards the tail-end of the menu include a copper pot full of chicken cooked with bulgur pilaf, tomatoes and long green chillies, and Murray cod kebab with sumac-spiced onion.

 

Wide range of dishes at Maydanoz
Bar counter at Maydanoz
Why we love itOf course, you’re here to get good things into your mouth, but service and warmth has always been an enormous part of Turkish hospitality and it’s clearly on display here. The team are really into what they’re doing and they want you to be as well, so let them help you deep-dive into the world of Turkish wines and fragrant dishes.            
Regular’s tipThere really is no pressure to order food if you’re just up for a drink, and the best time to do that would be happy hour. Every Thursday and Friday from 3:00pm to 6:00pm the team turns on the top-value drinks – $7 beer and wine, and cocktails for $14 – so knock off work a few beats early (we live in a flexi-work world now – it’s so fine) and make it your regular.
Who to takeThe inner-city location has “after work” written all over it, but the atmosphere and sharing nature of the menu mean that Maydanoz really works for groups, too. Looking for somewhere for a Saturday night birthday dinner or weekday long lunch? Get it on your radar. Not only will you probably have this little spot of the city to yourself on a weekend, but there’s every conceivable form of public transport right on the doorstep.
A glass of cocktail at Maydanoz
image credits: Steven Woodburn