NOW EXPERIENCING:Marla Singer

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 30 Jan 2024

By
Alix Clark


Cafe by day, wine bar by night, this neighbourhood newcomer is a magnet for fans of low-intervention wines paired with smart vegetable-forward dishes.

Why you goBy day, this unassuming marina-side shopfront is a bustling hotspot serving up brunches and lunches that are several notches above the usual fare. Come nightfall, the Marla Singer team slips into something more comfortable and transforms into a wine bar-cum-restaurant, serving an ever-changing line-up of Tasmanian-inspired dishes paired with low-intervention and natural wines. Oh, and a couple of killer batched cocktails, too.
Potato cake, beef tartare and quail egg at Marla Singer
Why you staySure, there are views over the marina, but the real drawcard here is the food and drinks. Cosy booths are good for groups or intimate catch-ups and the staff are friendly and attentive without being intrusive. The fit-out is simple, but the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. Ask about any menu items and you learn most of the produce comes from local growers or the chef’s backyard. The wine list is well-considered and knowledgeable staff are happy to provide guidance on the drinks front.
What drink to orderStart with a Negroni or a Rondo Spritz – the team adds a dash of Cynar (a bittersweet Italian artichoke-based liqueur that is popping up in cocktails around town) for extra sophistication. If beer’s your thing, there’s a short but eclectic selection that includes local brews Last Rites and Two Metre Tall (the latter’s Derwent ale packs a punch at 6.25%) along with Willie Smith’s cider. The wine list is focused on low-intervention and natural wines with plenty from Italy and France, such as the Moussamoussettes sparkling rosé by the Loire Valley’s Domaine Mosse. If skin contact is your thing, there’s the Klusterphünk chardonnay from Western Australia’s Brave New Wine or the Regio Bianco trebbiano from Umbria’s Cantina Margo.
What to pair it withSmall and perfectly formed bites are the best way to start, and we recommend ordering whatever’s on offer. That could be a delicate savoury doughnut topped with neon-hued piccalilli pickle and house-cured pork lardo or a slice of crisp-toasted baguette draped with salty anchovies and pickled salsify. The flavours are big and designed to go with a glass of whatever takes your fancy. Larger plates could include wide ribbons of house-made chestnut tagliatelle topped with parmesan and a flash-fried artichoke, a satisfying wedge of potato galette, baked until tender and smothered in briny smoked-mussel butter. Vibrant basil ice-cream with candied rhubarb is a must-order for dessert.
Food and drinks at Marla Singer
Why we love itThe constantly changing menu means there’s always a reason to keep coming back and finding a new favourite to rave about. While dinner is the main event, brunch and lunch are also worth visiting for. An in-house baker keeps the restaurant well supplied with sourdough, pastries, tarts and baguettes. Weekend brunches are popular, so it’s best to make a booking.
Pickled clam and shallot toast at Marla Singer
Regular’s tipThe dinner menu is relatively brief and constantly changing. Bring your appetite and order one of everything (which will comfortably feed two people). Chances are high that chef Jonathan Kincaid will send out an off-the-menu item as well. Say yes to whatever he offers up and you won’t be disappointed – it could be something he’s experimenting with, such as house-cured meats, Noma-inspired black apples or a vegetable that stumbled into his kitchen that morning.
Who to takeMost well-known Hobart restaurants are on the city side of the Derwent, so this is an ideal place to take friends who rarely cross the river. It’s perfect for an expertly executed brunch or lunch with friends, and ideal for drinks and dinner with someone who appreciates natural and low-intervention wines paired with smart vegetable-forward dishes by a chef who draws inspiration from international trends and hyper-local Tasmanian produce.