What to pair it withInstead of the customary match of red wine and cheese, Ruzicka suggests one of his hand-picked (often French) cheeses with a top-shelf cider, and points to the organic options from Normandy farmer Julien Frémont. Lucinda’s cured meats, made in-house and sourced from organically raised pigs, pair with a fruit-driven, naturally made Domaine de Brin rosé from the Gaillac region of south-west France – a blend of braucol, one of the region’s lesser-known grape varieties, with a dash of shiraz. While the cooking space is tiny and in full view – cooktop, toaster, meat slicer – the plates are well constructed (in fact, most of the prep is done next door at Dier Makr). And although more casual than the innovative intensity achieved by the kitchen at Dier Makr, Lucinda’s short menu takes seasonality seriously.