NOW EXPERIENCING:Lucinda

Pack a spirit of adventure, pull up a bar stool at this wine bar on the (very civilised) edge of the world and take a deep dive into the wild, wonderful world of natural wine.

people having good times in a restaurant
Why you goAnaliese Gregory, the poster child of Tasmanian foraging and wild cooking, is guest chef at Lucinda for Friday lunches, which is reason enough to go. A recent case study: half a King Island rock lobster with satay sauce and flatbread and strawberry and fig-leaf pavlova roll. But as good as the food is, it’s always the supporting act here. “Lucinda gets top marks for an eclectically delicious wine selection and the fact they can also whip out a great Dirty Martini,” Gregory says. Lucinda happens to be her preferred Hobart hang, whether she’s on the pans or not. Like many loyal patrons, she’s drawn by a wine list that’s not just eclectic but extensive – the treasure-trove cellar is shared with sister restaurant Dier Makr, just next door in a handsome old building in inner-city Hobart.
Why you stayIt’s the unpretentious atmosphere as much as the adventurous wine list and wine-friendly food that makes it hard to leave Lucinda once you’ve settled in. The regally high ceilings – owner-chef Kobi Ruzicka reckons they tower about five metres – create a deceptively spacious feeling in a small space, which means it’s easy to meet fellow drinkers without feeling like an eavesdropper. The interior is woody – polished original floorboards, a big timber central bar – and otherwise unfussy. It’s casual enough for passers-by to drop in on the way to somewhere else, and elegant enough for dress-ups on a date night.
What drink to orderIt’s an inevitable question when browsing Lucinda’s dauntingly large wine list. The bar team’s response is straightforward and refreshing: they stock what they like and open what takes their fancy. What they like are food-friendly wines with relatively low alcohol and high acidity, grown organically and made with minimal intervention. A 2020 Domaine Charnay Beaujolais reflects the tastes of Ruzicka and his team. As the small plates appear – Boomer Bay oysters from southern Tasmania, delicate cheese puffs, aka gougères, cavatelli pasta with a rustic sauce – follow the Beaujolais with a sparkling nebbiolo by natural-wine label Little Reddie of central Victoria, then try out a Sicilian orange wine made from local grillo grapes by Alessandro Viola. Lucinda’s reputation for sparkling wine is renowned, with four dedicated pages on the list. “Rather than a food pairing with sparkling I’d like to suggest a time pairing: bubbles to start and bubbles to finish,” says Ruzicka.
What to pair it withInstead of the customary match of red wine and cheese, Ruzicka suggests one of his hand-picked (often French) cheeses with a top-shelf cider, and points to the organic options from Normandy farmer Julien Frémont. Lucinda’s cured meats, made in-house and sourced from organically raised pigs, pair with a fruit-driven, naturally made Domaine de Brin rosé from the Gaillac region of south-west France – a blend of braucol, one of the region’s lesser-known grape varieties, with a dash of shiraz. While the cooking space is tiny and in full view – cooktop, toaster, meat slicer – the plates are well constructed (in fact, most of the prep is done next door at Dier Makr). And although more casual than the innovative intensity achieved by the kitchen at Dier Makr, Lucinda’s short menu takes seasonality seriously.
Why we love itGreat wine tastes even better with a memorable backstory. With easy charm and not a shred of pretension, sommelier Annalise Ringuet deftly matches wine to mood (or food) and spins just enough of a winemaking tale to intrigue rather than exhaust.
Who to takeLucinda is an essential stop on the itinerary of any fun-loving, wine-loving visitor to Hobart – and a sure-fire place to meet fun-loving, wine-loving Hobartians.
image credits: Luke Burgess