NOW EXPERIENCING:Kiln

It’s a hotel restaurant, but not as you know it. Two Sydney hospitality gurus have come up with the food and drinks for good times, and the views from this rooftop space aren’t bad either.

Dish served at Kiln
Why you goIf your idea of a hotel restaurant is overpriced fish-chicken-steak situations – possibly even (faints) involving silver cloches – then Kiln is here to banish the thought and lead you into hotel restaurants 2.0. The rest of the world has been doing them well for a while now, but Australia has been a little slower on the uptake. No matter, here we are, and here you should be – specifically, on level 18 of the new Ace Hotel in Sydney’s Surry Hills. That’s where you’ll find chef Mitch Orr (you might remember him from his delicious work mashing up Japanese and Italian flavours at the much-missed Acme in Darlinghurst) behind the stoves, and Mike Bennie (he of well-written wine lists everywhere) behind the drinks, and patrons ready to party. Kiln is cool, bristling with buzz, and there’s not a cloche in sight.
Why you stayMitch and Mike’s reputations mean Kiln was always going to be one of the hottest openings of 2022, but it doesn’t behave like it – the service is charming, egalitarian and attentive. You’re greeted from the moment you enter the hotel downstairs, again at the top of the elevators, and repeatedly as you make your way to your table, which is some nice, old-fashioned home-style hospitality. The decor, fit-out and feels, however, are as cool as it comes: ’70s-style tan and mustard leather lounges and terrazzo wallpaper, the stereo serving ’90s hip-hop and there’s also skyscraper city views. If you can, arrive a few beats early for a cocktail at the centrepiece bar so you can drink in a bit of the atmosphere before you get to the full experience.
Interior at Kiln
Drinks and eatery at Kiln
What drink to order:The Smoked Samurai – the house take on a Margarita, served in a coupe and made with tequila, mezcal, mandarin and lime juice – proved to be the big crowd hit in the opening few weeks. From there, move on to anything from Mike’s playful wine list, which he groups under easy-to-compute headings like “full flavoured white” and “fresh and chilled reds”. Mike has never met a boring wine he didn’t banish, so everything here is intriguing, and quite possibly something you haven’t tried before. You could do worse than simply plonking your finger down and seeing where it lands.
What to pair it withYou say “Mitch”, I say “Jatz”. Mitch Orr may never shake off his reputation as the Jatz Man, something he started when he began serving the classic Aussie cracker over at Acme, and now he continues at Kiln. Here, he serves them with a blob of butter that he smokes in the ashes of the kitchen’s wood-fire grill along with a curl of anchovy. While that doesn’t sound like it would bring the house down, you just try it and see if you’re not ordering three more rounds. The scallops, meanwhile, served on the half-shell and sizzling with lemon butter, are also a taste-bomb, and any of the large bits of wood-fired protein towards the tail end of the menu – steak, fish, calamari – will be cooked right on point. At the time of writing, there were also two mushroom dishes on the menu, and Mitch has a treasured relationship with a local grower, so with luck they’ll stick around, at least in season. Wood-fired mushrooms glazed in delicious stickiness? You’d be mad not to.
Smoked Butter snacks served at Kiln
Seating at Kiln
Don’t leave withoutBrowse the Ace merch in the foyer. There’s much more than T-shirts and mugs (though there are those as well) – you can also grab shampoo and conditioner, branded pencils, and even sunglasses.
Make it fancyIt’ll doubtless get switched-up on the regular, but the reserve wine list Mike has put together is made for when you want to go all out or the boss has whipped out the corporate credit card. Get your bougie on with two big French numbers: a smoky berry-forward northern Rhône shiraz from Herve Souhaut, or a Jean-François Ganevat pinot noir from the Jura region.
Who to takeThis place begs to turn into a party at any minute, particularly during the warmer months when the terrace roof retracts to let in the sounds and scents of the city. So, it’s probably not the spot for a family dinner or first date; this is definitely where you want to bring an up-for-it crew. If your table is needed for the next reservation, you can always continue the party downstairs in the lobby bar.
Want to know where Kiln chef Mitch Orr eats when he's off duty? Don't miss his round-up of favourite venues around the country.  
image credits: Food: Nikki To; Interiors: Anson Smart.