What started as a hit Greek pop-up now brings new life to a landmark Melbourne venue, delivering possibly the best Grecian eats and drinks in the country, and plenty of good times.
It’s a funny thing – Melbourne is famous for its Greek food and Greek culture, but really great Greek restaurants are not actually that common. And if you want one that opens late, that’s an even greater challenge. Or at least it was before Kafeneion came along. What started as a pop-up, an experiment by one of Melbourne’s most influential bar and restaurant owners, has now become an instant classic – the perfect go-to for Greek good times, but also for anyone looking for good times, full stop. It’s got a vibe, it’s got great food, great drinks, is reasonably priced and somehow both intimate and good for groups at the same time. You’re going to love it.
In Greece, the tradition of the kafeneio goes back centuries. You’ll find them in each village and neighbourhood – places where friends gather to drink a bit of ouzo or raki, play a bit of backgammon or a hand or two of cards, and generally kick back and catch up. In the hands of Con Christopoulos and Stavros Konis, the Melbourne version has more of a restaurant and bar feel. It makes sense when you consider their respective backgrounds. Stav is part of a family of Melbourne Greek restaurateurs, and splits his time between Kafeneion and the historic Salona in Richmond, while Con is the founder of Melbourne eating, drinking and dancing landmarks such as City Wine Shop, Butchers Diner, Angel Music Bar, The European, Kirk’s Wine Bar and French Saloon.
One of Con’s other great calling cards is The Melbourne Supper Club, a venue that in some ways defined the wood-panelled, lovingly aged aesthetic that we now take to be an essential part of Melbourne. When Con opened Siglo, a rooftop bar a floor above the Supper Club, back in 2008, the newer venue took with it some of the Supper Club crowd, and over time, the Club lost a bit of its lustre. But now that Kafeneion (which opened first as a pop-up on Bourke Street) has taken up residence there, the Supper Club has recovered its mojo, and its newfound sparkle has won back the hearts of its old regulars and cast a spell over a whole new generation of guests.
