NOW EXPERIENCING:Jayda

At Jayda, a Melbourne drinks bigwig has composed a list of magic cocktails that play on the classics with a Middle Eastern lilt to chime with the equally impressive snacks.

Enjoying drinks at Jayda
Why you goThere’s a good chance you know Maha, Shane Delia’s 14-year-old Middle Eastern fine-diner tucked down an unremarkable CBD laneway. Now meet its new bar stablemate. Taking over the next-door space, Jayda is a bar with as much personality as its big sibling. It’s a gorgeous-looking space, capitalising on the 1930s Art Moderne building and adding a sultry mid-century vibe. The cocktail list by Orlando Marzo weaves subtle excellence with the Middle Eastern theme and you can be assured the snack game is strong. 
Why you stayAnyone who loves a bar that transports them to another place and time – and who doesn’t? – will love Jayda. Stepping into the moody space, with its red orb lights and curving green bar, its fluted columns and groovy chandelier, the lighting set to such a gentle level your eyes might take a while to adjust, is like being catapulted to Beirut in the 1960s during its “Paris of the Levant” heyday. That’s definitely the mood Jayda is going for, with a great soundtrack of Turkish disco folk mixed with Arabic funk and a touch of Blue Note Records from its 1960s hard-bop era – just take it as a given the music is in good hands thanks to the oversight of Chris Gill of Northside Records. Stick to the high-top tables in the front room or head through the archway to the lounge, where velvet couches give the chance to kick back in glamorous style.
Behind the bar at Jayda
A tray of Negroni cocktails
What drink to orderMelbourne-based, globally acclaimed drinks bigwig Orlando Marzo sure knows how to compose a cocktail list to a brief. At Jayda he’s made a compelling collection of drinks that play on the classics with a Middle Eastern lilt. That could mean a Whisky Highball made with fino sherry, green cardamom, lemon and ginger ale, or a Margarita with yuzu citrus and green-tea spirit and a rim of Aleppo chilli salt. The Negroni has bolted out of the gates as the signature: it’s a velvety take with the add-ons of dehydrated yoghurt, rosehip and blackberry leaf. At 80 bottles, the wine list is not too big and not too small – and while it’s not the home of bargains, it packs plenty of interest, from the envelope-pushing Mornington Peninsula favourite Quealy to Lebanese and Israeli gear.
What to pair it withIt’s not a place for “dinner” per se, but if you line up all of Jayda’s snacks end to end, it most definitely constitutes a meal. Start with fresh oysters or cured meats from Salt Kitchen before getting down with the Maha-esque magic of gently spiced lamb cigars in shattery filo pastry, a braised-beef borek bun with the sweet-leaning spicing of tamarind, coconut and turmeric, or the raw-fish spin of roe-topped tuna tartare-like kibbeh to wrap in a large leaf of perilla, a savoury Asian herb. It’s fingers-recommended eating, but ask for cutlery if you want to keep yourself nice – things can get a little messy. This is especially true of the must-order “after-service sandwich”, which is the time-honoured Maha staff meal using the grunty end bits of lamb shoulder, wrapping them in pastry and adding a spiced lamb jus. It’s just the thing you’ll be thinking of when the clock strikes midnight.
Various dishes at Jayda
Wine pouring at Jayda
Regular's tipJayda’s a destination in itself, no debate. But for another recipe for a great night out in Melbourne, start at Jayda – maybe with an Olive Oil Martini or a Cherry and Cacao Manhattan – before heading next door to settle into one of Maha’s renowned banquet menus. Satisfaction guaranteed. 
Make it fancyThe wine list is stacked with covetable gems, from benchmark Italian nebbiolo reds to cultish Lebanon Château Musar varieties and the chance to try 2012 Dom Pérignon by the glass. Only those with deeper pockets need apply. 
Dom Perignon at Jayda
The backlit bar at Jayda
Who to take Shane Delia's big public profile, partly thanks to his stints on the telly, means it’s a diverse crowd here, free-ranging across ages and group size. But all thanks to a canny combination of great music, dim lighting and all-round sultry vibes, this is unequivocally one of the best date-night bars going. Swipe right. 
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
image credits: Kristoffer Paulsen