NOW EXPERIENCING:Jacksons on George

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 14 Dec 2023

By
David Matthews


Jacksons on George revives a CBD landmark with a fresh outlook. It’s classic but contemporary, with a rooftop bar, pub and bistro across three levels. 

The rooftop bar at Jacksons on George, Sydney
Why you goThe original Jacksons on George was a landmark in Sydney’s CBD, known for its late nights, sticky floors and the memories made along the way. One thing it was less well-known for was the quality of its food and drink, but the revamped 2023 version flips the script. Yes, there are pub classics and an overriding spirit of revelry, but across the three levels – featuring a public bar, rooftop space and bistro – what’s clear is this is a place with serious credibility behind the party vibes. Taking top billing is Maurice Terzini, owner and visionary behind Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, and a man with a keen eye for how to make multifaceted pub venues work (anyone who visited The Dolphin in Surry Hills under his watch will attest to his sure touch). He’s brought on collaborators with experience in some of the world’s best bars, chefs with fine-dining chops, internationally renowned artists, an impressive line-up of DJs and jazz bands, and somehow still managed to keep the tone approachable and, above all, fun. Why go? There hasn’t been a CBD venue like this launch in years, and odds are everyone else is already here.
Why you stayLet’s start from the bottom. At the public bar, you’ll find tables spread inside and out, a central bar, standing room, screens and a casual tone, all pitched at a post-work crowd. But the relaxed atmosphere masks an elevated approach with added smarts. Take the cocktail list – it keeps things interesting, but stays simple enough so shift bartenders have no trouble pulling them off when the queue is four deep. Jump to the rooftop and the music is pounding (DJs soundtrack the outdoor space every night of the week), while the arched roof lights up in a shifting sea of colour. Come summer, it’ll be ground zero for good times in the city. Then there’s the bistro on the middle floor, where things get more swish with white tablecloths and a food offer that starts with the likes of yellowfin tuna crostini, detours via caviar and hits hard with mains that hew classic – steaks on the grill, rôtisserie chicken and whole fish in limoncello-butter sauce. Whatever the floor, whatever the time, a conspiratorial air of celebration remains.
Looking into the ground-floor bar at Jacksons on George
A classic Japanese Slipper at Jacksons on George
What drink to order

Cocktails are the place to start. Opt for the Japanese Slipper and see a retro classic reborn with melon liqueur, Cointreau and lemon juice shaken into a lurid-green concoction that’s just the right amount of sweet and sharp. Pick a 50-50 Martini, and the extra vermouth ensures it goes down smoothly. Order a Margarita and it comes classically made, with an optional hit of spicy agave to ramp things up. Move to wine and the menu plays hits, but is equally geared for today: there’s a chilled red in the form of Vinden Gamay from New South Wales, or golden-hued orange wine from Italy’s Lazio that’s all texture and spice. Beers such as Balter, Carlton Draught, Peroni and Pirate Life are on tap. 

That’s upstairs and downstairs, but Bistro George on the middle floor leans fancy, offering premium wines with a Euro edge, supplementing a more refined cocktail list (think a Pandan Negroni or classic Sidecar). And did somebody say “Martini trolley”?

What to pair it with

Flexibility is the key – each space is different, but builds on the rest. Downstairs in the Public Bar, it’s pub classics given a twist, with the odd curveball to keep it interesting – a slab of soft white bread overloaded with caramelised onion and topped with a grilled sausage from LP’s Quality Meats, fried chicken with aïoli shot through with Calabrian chilli, or a straight-up-and-down cheeseburger made with dry-aged beef. Schnitzel? They have it, but you’ll find it billed as spatchcock cotoletta and served with tasty Diane sauce. Familiar, but enticingly unexpected.

At Bistro George, where waiters tread the floor in white worker jackets, it’s line-caught coral trout with buttery limoncello sauce, rigatoni alla gin (a spin on vodka pasta), carved rôtisserie chicken and top-notch steaks. A far cry from the original Jacksons.

The steak served up at Jacksons on George
The mural in the stairwell at Jacksons on George
Don’t leave withoutThe building is sculptural and striking, sure, and care has been taken with every aspect of the fit-out, but a couple of extras are worth checking in on. First, the downstairs bar features a striking commission from Yankunytjatjara artist Kaylene Whiskey that takes inspiration from her culture – Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and pop culture all at once. The central stairway, meanwhile – a cavernous space rendered in concrete – is brightened by a sunburst mural, The Star We Live By, in bright canary yellow. Take it in as you make your way to the rooftop for sundowners.
image credits: Tom Ferguson; Jason Loucas