NOW EXPERIENCING:Institut Polaire

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 26 Jun 2024

By
Luke Slattery


Bond girl meets Antarctic explorer in Tasmania’s coolest bar, known for its “cold-hearted liquor” poured at a long marble bar in a stylish snowflake-white room.

Institut Polaire bar ambiance
Why you goInstitut Polaire takes inspiration from its proximity to the Southern Ocean and the frozen continent beyond, sitting coolly on the harbour of Australia’s gateway city to Antarctica with a direct view of the nation’s new ice-breaker at anchor. Expect cool-climate wines and spirits (labelled “cold-hearted liquor”) and alpine-influenced bar snacks. In a clever twist, the bar acts as an inner-city cellar door for the owners’ other big projects: natural winemaker Nav Singh’s label, Domaine Simha, produced in the Derwent Valley, and distiller and sommelier Louise Radman’s Süd Polaire spirits.
Why you stayPale light filters through tall street-front windows, illuminating snowy interiors cooled by expanses of white marble on the bar and tabletops, and polished terrazzo underfoot, and warmed by a gas fireplace, sheepskin throws and plush grey-leather bar stools. The night might start with a few briny Bruny Island oysters, the pride of southern Tasmania, a Süd Polaire gin flight and early ’80s pop. Stay longer for wagyu tartare, a glass of spicy Domaine Simha pinot noir and late ’80s new-wave. Count on either or both owners being on hand for recommendations and pairings.
Institut Polaire food menus
What drink to orderStart with the bar’s signature Antarctic Dry Martini, based on Süd Polaire’s bracingly dry gin, served in a frosty-cold silver coupe and finished with a spritz of juniper mist. The spirits library and small, inspired wine list (with about 100 wines, 16 by the glass) are focused on cool-climate regions and styles, biodynamic farming and natural techniques. A case study is the bar’s own label, Domaine Simha, producing small volumes of highly regarded pinot noir and chardonnay from a single vineyard using wild fermentation, lunar timing and minimal intervention. Rieslings from the cool slopes of Alsace, Austria’s Wachau Valley and Germany’s Mosel Valley feature alongside cult Champagnes such as Egly-Ouriet and Jacques Selosse. If you’ve ever fancied some alpine experimentation, this is the place to explore a carefully edited list of amari, aquavit and absinthe from frosty latitudes.
What to pair with itA short list of bar snacks and plates is based on big flavours, alpine-style pickling and fermentation and ethically produced ingredients such as local cured meats with pickled kohlrabi, and a couple of hand-picked cheeses. If there’s pasta on the menu, it’ll be handmade, likely scented with Huon Valley saffron and teamed with something simple but rich such as duck yolk and walnut butter, or bottarga, Italy’s salty cured roe, and dashi butter. Wagyu tartare is made with sustainably produced beef from Dunorlan in northern Tasmania. And there’s a Tasmanian twist to the bar’s largely classic cocktails, spiked with the local likes of applewood salt, leatherwood honey and mountain pepperberry bitters.
Why we love itThere’s substance with style. We love the bar’s cool elegance warmed by the willingness of its affable owners to share their hands-on winemaking and distilling knowledge.
Regular’s tipOn Sundays order the katsu sando, a Japanese-style fried-pork sandwich, made with locally grown heritage-breed meat, and match it with a flask of sake.
Institut Polaire drinks
Make it fancySlip into a fur-trimmed Bond-girl dress or Tasmanian-tuxedo puffer jacket, book a table by the little fireplace and splash out on a bottle of “rock star” pinot noir from Burgundy or vintage bubbles from Champagne. Better still, team that special bottle with a seasonal set menu. It’s good value at $88 for six courses of refined Tasmanian fare – the likes of scallop sashimi doused in white soy and yuzu citrus, handmade saffron pasta with spanner crab, and Cape Grim eye-fillet with celeriac and radicchio.
Who to takeCosy up at the bar with a date for late-night romance. Or book a guided wine, gin or Tasmanian whisky tasting with the crew on weekends in the tasting room. For classy team sport, book a Süd Polaire Martini masterclass on a Sunday afternoon.