NOW EXPERIENCING:Henry Sugar

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 12 Jan 2023

By
Larissa Dubecki


We’re in the brave new world of natural wine at this bar-restaurant with Melbourne-meets-Paris good looks, backed up by locally focused cocktails, standout eats and great tunes.

Bar tender at Henery Sugar
Why you goIt’s always interesting to see a good wine bar evolve into a great one. In the case of Carlton’s Henry Sugar, the past few years have seen it journey from a wine bar with a small menu to something much more rounded. You could sit on a soft green banquette for hours arguing the definitions here – is Henry Sugar a wine bar with great food, or a restaurant with a great drinks list? The bottom line: the 50:50 split will keep pretty much everyone happy. Whether you’re dropping in for a native ingredient-infused cocktail at a high-top table in the bar area, or settling in for the multi-course chef’s menu matched with natural wines, there’s a welcoming spirit here – and that’s what we all want from our favourite local.
Why you stay

There’s much to love about Henry Sugar, but let’s start with the music. An irresistibly eclectic soundtrack of R&B, soul, funk and Afrobeat – perhaps with Nigerian disco and bossa nova thrown in for good measure – is a sure-fire way to make a bar buzz (DJs keep the mood upbeat most nights of the week, but the acoustics are so good you can still have a conversation without shouting). The low-key Melbourne-meets-Paris good looks are another winner, with stripped-back red-brick walls, bistro tables flanking the banquette, loads of greenery and interesting wine bottles lining the shelves making it a place you want to linger longer. And if you’re a bit unsure about the whole natural-wine thing, this is a great place to start. The staff will cut through any pretension and deliver the juice you want to drink.

 

Glasses of drinks at Henery Sugar
Glass of drink at Henery Sugar
What drink to orderYou’re definitely in the brave new world of natural wine here. The list is chock-full of unique drops that reward the curious: interesting skin-contact whites, a good selection of natural sparkling and rustic reds united in their minimal-intervention approach. Minim’s skin-contact vermentino from Castlemaine is a good place to start, as is The Wanderer’s gorgeously aromatic pinot noir from the Yarra Valley. The same approach goes for the cocktails, which champion small Australian craft distilleries and include native ingredients growing in the rear courtyard. Expect a gin and tonic made with Patient Wolf’s gin, Henry Sugar’s house-made tonic and native basil, or a house Spritz rocking Imbroglio Amaro, an Australian take on Italy’s bittersweet liqueur, prosecco and the bar’s fermented orange soda, or a Tommy’s Margarita infused with mandarin and Geraldton wax.
Why we love itThe Rathdowne Village is one helluva pretty spot with its broad Victorian verandas and plane trees, and Henry Sugar rocks some of its best real estate. There are few things better than grabbing a streetside table here and enjoying a Negroni in the late-afternoon sunshine. And in the depths of a Melbourne winter, it’s difficult to resist the allure of the open fire and the kind of textured interiors that feel as cosy as a cashmere jumper.  
What to pair it withThere’s real synchronicity between drinks and food here, evidenced both in the use of native ingredients and a quirky touch in the kitchen. Look no further than the bread, a wattleseed focaccia with Vegemite butter, and the oysters dabbed with Davidson plum vinaigrette. Charry kingfish collar makes a waste-not approach work with the help of pickled mussels and a spicy bush-tomato harissa paste, while savoury doughnuts filled with Gruyère-cheese custard or porterhouse steak with bone marrow and herb gremolata sauce dip into the classics. Dessert is a standout thanks to co-owner Mike Baker’s pastry expertise honed at Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca – go for the keenly valued $85 chef’s menu for a chance to taste the lilly pilly sorbet with finger lime and coconut gel, or stick to the a la carte menu for the world’s silkiest crème brûlée.
Image of drink 2 at Henery Sugar
Regular’s tipThe fine tradition of Mondays being the going-out night for hospo staff is honoured at Henry Sugar with DJs, drinks specials and cut-price snacks or a two-course menu (pro tip: you don’t have to work in hospitality to come along).
Who to takeTake your best friend, your housemates, your gran – this is a venue that pleases everyone.