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Drinks Directory|Melbourne|Casual catch-up|Top notch wine list

Gray and Gray

188 High Street, Northcote, VIC, 3070
Phone
0434 618 331
Website
breadandwine.com.au
Instagram
@grayandbreadandwine

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 13 Oct 2022

By
Michael Harden

A former solicitor’s office turned stylish wine bar brings Eastern European-inspired food to Melbourne, served alongside intriguing lo-fi wines from Georgia to the Adelaide Hills.

Dish prepration by chef at Gray and Gray
Why you stayDespite an absence of soft surfaces, Gray and Gray has an attractively cosy quality that’s immediately relaxing. Perhaps it’s the compact dimensions bathed in the light of the open kitchen with its timber pass and a “bar” that’s more a domestic counter than drinks dispenser. The space has been cleverly divided and skilfully lit so the vibe is intimate rather than cramped. It’s a low-key stylish place with impeccable taste, and makes the perfect backdrop for food and drink that could otherwise have punters feeling out of their comfort zone.
What drink to orderThe wine list at Gray and Gray is the main drink drawcard. It’s a collection of small-producer wines from all over the world with a slight emphasis on French and Australian producers. But, given the accent of the menu, it’s an ideal opportunity to have a look at some of the list’s unfamiliar Georgian drops – perhaps a pale ruby tavkveri from the Vinônô winery or a floral white mtsvane from Pheasant’s Tears. There’s a selection of wines on the blackboard, but the cabinet and shelves serve as the full wine list and are worth a browse. Gray and Gray also has a takeaway licence so you can leave with a bottle of that wonderful Italian cortese you might discover while you’re here.
Image of diffrent glasses Gray and Gray
Image of glass jars and glass bowls at Gray and Gray
What to pair it withThe Gray and Gray food menu is strong on wine-friendly fermented and pickled things – snacks such as smoked mackerels with sour plum and a squid-ink cracker, say, and bread topped with cured fish and pickled egg. Dumplings are perhaps stuffed with parsnips, while heftier items might include pork ribs cooked over coals. All the dishes are very good, but one is non-negotiable here (when it’s available) and that’s the medovik, a magnificent, almost sculptural construction of layers of honey-drenched cake with a caramel-flavoured buttercream holding it all together. It should come with an addiction warning. Do not miss.
Regular’s tip

Fans of a long lunch should note that Gray and Gray serves one up  every Sunday – it’s a leisurely affair that starts at noon and ends at 7.30pm with zero pressure to rush.

 

Don’t leave withoutCocktail lovers should keep an eye out for the Babushkas Lada, a smooth, grown-up drink. It’s a nicely bitter, slightly spicy mix of Italian amaro liqueur, vermouth and house-made ginger kefir fermented milk, served in a highball glass over ice and garnished with a sprig of rosemary.
Who to take The intimacy of Gray and Gray and the sense of being transported to a small bar in some ancient European city make it best for couples and smaller groups rather than large, rowdy birthday bashes. It’s particularly good for first dates – the food and wine offer plenty of talking points to cover any uncomfortable silences.
Image of wine glass and dish plate at Gray and Gray
Sponsor logo
In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Michael HardenAfter 25 years writing about wine and food, Michael Harden is getting the hang of it.
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Drinks DirectoryRestaurantNon-alc OptionsCasual catch-upVego Food OptionsMelbourne – NorthBarMelbourneMeal and a bevTop notch wine listDate nightTakeaways
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