NOW EXPERIENCING:Gibney

Hamptons cool meets old-world glamour at this bar and restaurant at Cottesloe Beach that channels the great brasseries of the world while pleasing rather than challenging guests.

Interiors at Gibney bar and restaurant at Cottesloe Beach
Why you goIt’s not every day that somewhere like Gibney opens in Perth. Then again, Gibney is no everyday bar or restaurant. From the moment you spy this gleaming, Hamptons-inspired fantasy overlooking South Cottesloe Beach, it’s clear that owner George Kailis has gone all-in on building what he hopes will become a showpiece restaurant – not just for locals, but also for visitors to the state who appreciate good living. Ambitious? Perhaps. But the early signs are that George has made good on his promise and created a thrilling, glamorous and perhaps almost intimidating (in a good way) destination that’s perpetually set for special-occasion wining and dining.
Why you staySometimes it’s the big things that move you the most. The shock-and-awe grandeur of a room held up with soaring columns rendered glossy via painstaking Venetian plasterwork. Or the towering wall of spirits that greets guests on arrival. (There’s also a dedicated host station by the front door for those who prefer a more human welcome.) The views aren’t half bad either, especially when it’s a sunny day and you’ve jagged a spot on the alfresco terrace. But it’s the little things that make the largest impression. The snappy staff uniform – white jackets, thin black ties – serves as a softly spoken statement of intent. Jazzy compositions tinkle and float in the background – another quiet nod to the romance and elegance of the classic Parisian and Manhattan dining rooms that Gibney draws inspiration from.  
The terrace at Gibney at Perth's Cottesloe Beach
The bar counter at Gibney in Perth
What drink to orderAny venue that covers its menu folders with ’60s-era fabrics (there’s a different design for each drink list, naturally) clearly sweats the little things. If you’re not convinced, consider the wine menu: a 75-page, 17,000-strong love letter to the pleasures of the vine. While the list is divided into regions and styles – think white Burgundy, rosé or shiraz – it switches things up by highlighting key producers in each category and offering different vintages. The rest of the drinks package demonstrates similar attention to detail. The Gibney Gibson, for instance, is served with a smoked onion and pickled cherry tomato along with the classic pickled onion (all three garnishes are house-made), and a dropper of Islay whisky so drinkers can fine-tune their drink’s smokiness. It’s an apt signature for a venue awash with old-world glamour. The Clear Intentions – a clarified milk punch riffing on the Cosmopolitan – and a Whisky Highball lengthened with house pineapple soda suggest bartenders are also across contemporary drinks trends.
What to pair it withModelled after the great brasseries of the world, Gibney is a restaurant that aspires to please rather than challenge its guests. But that doesn’t mean the kitchen is all about steakhouse-by-numbers cookery. A snack of Spanish Olasagasti anchovies and caramelised onion arranged on lightweight pastry pays tribute to southern France’s pissaladière tart. A grilled cabbage arrives charry from the grill, its leaves sandwiching a bold, spicy XO sauce. As you’d hope from a high-flying beachside dining room, the seafood rocks. Korea’s gochujang chilli paste and crisp-fried shallots reimagine oysters Kilpatrick through an Asian lens, while curried buckwheat and butter lend an Indian accent to grilled lobster. Splash out on a crunchy, life-affirming white wine and know happiness. Steaks and lamb rump are excellent excuses for the red-wine crowd to take another look at the list.
Oysters served up two ways at Gibney at Perth's Cottesloe Beach
The rib-eye steak served at Gibney in Perth
Make it fancyAlthough one could argue that fancy is Gibney’s default setting, it’s remarkable how many ways there are to supercharge your experience. Does the thought of rare old whiskies quicken the heart? Quiz bartenders about hard-to-find bottlings from marquee distillers such as Islay heavyweight Laphroaig, Woodford Reserve from Kentucky, and Australian pioneer Lark. Like Champagne? The big names from all the heavyweight houses are present and accounted for (with suitably big price tags). For those nights when a magnum of Dom Pérignon doesn’t feel quite right, premium by-the-glass options warrant consideration. As far as food goes, hefty rib-eye to share, full-blood wagyu sirloin and tins of caviar are ready to put the ‘party’ into dinner party.
Who to takeAlthough “someone with an expense account” is the 100-point answer here, we’ll settle for anyone who’s happy to split the bill. Of course we kid (sort of), but there’s no denying that a visit to Gibney has the potential to be pricey. While it’s possible to have a great time here without breaking the bank, a destination restaurant and bar like this is best approached with a certain damn-the-expense bravado. In practical terms, this means scanning the calendar for your next milestone birthday, anniversary or other special occasion, securing a reservation, getting dressed to the nines and bracing for credit-card impact. After all, it’s not every day you get to take a place like Gibney for a spin.
The entry to Gibney at Perth's Cottesloe Beach