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Daintree

Cadmans Cottage Stairs, 106b George Street, The Rocks, NSW, 2000
Website
daintreesydney.com.au
Instagram
@daintree.sydney

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 24 Nov 2022

By
David Matthews

Daintree brings all-Australian cocktails and a sustainable outlook to the heritage Rocks neighbourhood, its sandstone walls a humble setting for a grand environmental mission.

Inside Daintree, Sydney
Why you goIf it seems like an easy win to open a small bar in the centre of one of the most quintessentially Australian locations, The Rocks, and stock it entirely with local spirits, you might be right. But as downright fantastic as the idea sounds, that bar didn’t exist until the doors swung open at Daintree in mid-2022. Pull up to the counter and the country’s booming craft-spirits movement is on full display on the sandstone fireplace that serves as the backbar. There’s Australian vodka, gin given a lemony tang with green ants, riffs on Campari made with native ingredients, and a growing range of local whiskies. On the tools, up-and-comer Seine Cheung offers a list of cocktails that taps into the range and makes good use of native ingredients. They may be as simple as a batched Negroni incorporating gum-leaf gin, house vermouth and a liqueur flavoured with native Davidson’s plum, garnished with a gumnut, or as complex as a Karkalla Collins, combining cucumber juice with native mint, and vodka infused with karkalla, a salty coastal succulent. But one thing’s for sure: they’re all equally delicious. So far, so good, but add the Daintree’s connection to not-for-profit HalfCut, which has a mission to protect and rewild rainforests, and a good idea turns into a good cause, too. Have a drink, save the rainforest – fine times all round.
Why you stayThe Rocks is undergoing something of a revival, with outdoor seating and a wave of new openings drawing locals back to the historic neighbourhood. Daintree might fly under the radar, but once you’ve discovered the entrance – either through sister bar The Keel, which specialises in rum, or down Cadmans Stairs past figs, ferns and gardenias – you’ll want to stay a while. And where better to get to grips with Australia’s wide range of spirits than right here, surrounded by sandstone? Banquettes are comfy, finishes feature either heritage or recycled timber, and tropical indoor plants evoke the bar’s namesake rainforest. And whereas 10 years ago, an all-Aussie list might have been something of a gimmick, today’s array of spirits from accomplished local distillers offers scope aplenty for drinks; the cocktails given a unique edge by flavours not found anywhere else in the world. The bar might not be pumping just yet, but odds are that once word spreads, you’ll be jostling for space with the rest of them on a Saturday night.
Wine and Fine DIne at Daintree, Sydney
Drinks to Order at Daintree, Sydney
What drink to orderThere’s nothing wrong with an ice-cold tinnie of Bucketty’s XPA (one of several New South Wales beers on offer) to kick things off, but you’re here to delve into the unique cocktails the staff craft behind the bar. Classics might be the best pick, so you can see how the local and native preparations take old favourites in exciting new directions. Case in point: the Quandong Daiquiri, where the peachy native fruit is macerated, clarified, then shaken with lime juice and Husk Rum from northern New South Wales. The result is a pleasantly fruity, orange-hued drink, sharp with citrus, and just the right kind of kick. Don’t skip it.
What to pair it withEven though Daintree shares a kitchen with sibling The Keel – meaning there’s more substantial bites on offer if you’re really peckish – the best things to go with your drinks are definitely in the snacks section. Cassava crackers and plantain chips are both satisfyingly salty and crunchy, while a tin of Spanish anchovies is a perfect match with fat slices of toasted bread and house-made pickles.
Why we love itIn a world filled with bars inspired by New York, Singapore, Barcelona or Paris, it’s indescribably refreshing to step into one that takes its cues from our own shores. To do it in the heart of The Rocks, right in the centre of Sydney? All the better. That’s one aspect, but add the mission to restore rainforests and the bar’s stated commitment to engaging with and learning about traditional owners and native flora, and a sound concept begins to take on real weight. Oh, and half the profits are donated to reforestation efforts. Win.
Wine Pairing Snacks at Daintree, Sydney
Cocktails and Beyond at Daintree, Sydney
Don’t leave withoutChecking out one of Daintree’s striking features – the black and white artwork by local artist Felix Saw that wraps the room. It stands out for its intricacy first, but it also draws the eye because it doesn’t seem quite finished. Felix didn’t just stop halfway, though. In fact, the 11 panels will continue to be filled in for every 100,000 trees planted through HalfCut, the thinking being that every panel represents one small step towards regeneration. Make a point of coming back to check its progress.
Who to takeThis is a place to meet with friends more than somewhere for a date, and it’s a very good reason to return to The Rocks if it’s been a while between drinks here. What better way to get to grips with the progress of the local spirits movement than right here where it’s all on show? Odds are you’ll walk out with a list of bottles to look for next time you’re stalking the shelves of your local bottle shop, and a host of new distilleries to add to your hitlist. Where Daintree really comes into its own, though, is as a place to take friends from out of town searching for something uniquely Australian. Gather a group and play tour guide.
Authour image
David MatthewsDavid Matthews is a bar and restaurant critic who has written for Australia’s leading food publications, including Gourmet Traveller and Good Food.
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Drinks DirectoryRecently openedAfter work drinksSydney – CBDA+ spirits listVego Food OptionsSydneyCasual catch-upKiller cocktailsBar
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