NOW EXPERIENCING:City Wine Shop

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 25 Apr 2022

By
Kendall Hill


The entrance to Melbourne's City Wine Shop

A landmark not just for Melbourne, but for great drinking, great shopping and great explorations of wine of every kind. If you don’t happen to have a cellar at home, this is the next best thing.

The facade of City Wine Shop in Melbourne CBD
Why you go

There’s a strong argument to be made that City Wine Shop, and not Parliament House, is the true power base on Spring Street. The great, the good and the gourmand gather at this convincingly French wine-cave for one of the city’s largest and finest wine cellars, and Continental cuisine from sister venue The European – Melbourne Supper Club, Angel Music Bar, Siglo and Neapoli are also in the family. All have their favourite perches, either at streetside tables (perfect for a Spritz in the sunshine), propped at bentwood chairs on the front porch, indoors at the timber-lined bar or around the communal table in the rear dining room. 

The thing about City Wine Shop is, it’s the perfect standby. Always there and ready to serve, no matter the mood. You can spend a whole evening here deep in conversation, or just pop in for a drink after work, grab a bottle for home, pop next door for some cheese and staples at Spring Street Grocer, then vanish into the night.

What drink to order

The wine team led by Dan Schwarze is constantly researching, refining and tweaking their selection to strike the right balance between popular labels, landmark domains and latest infatuations. The published bar list leans towards classic styles; a Clare Valley riesling, chardonnays from the Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills and Burgundy, Barossa shiraz and nebbiolo from its native Piedmont. There’s also a small selection of skin-contact wines. 

But the wine list is merely a taste of what’s in stock. A huge part of the appeal at this CBD icon is the soaring wine wall of more than 200 labels, prices chalked on the shelves beneath, any of which can be consumed in-house. If you don’t have your own cellar at home, this is the next best thing. 

You’ll also find a good offering of ales – from German weissbier to Boatrocker stout from southeast Melbourne – alongside a smattering of whiskies, fortifieds and digestifs. And a quartet of cocktails: Aperol Spritz, Martini, Negroni and Old Fashioned. Just life’s essentials.

Inside City Wine Shop, with the walls lined with bottles
What to pair it withThe combination of The European’s menu and City Wine Shop’s cellar is one of Melbourne’s great double acts. The French-focussed food ranges from charcuterie to caviar, alongside delicious snacks like smoked eel croquettes, fried haloumi with syrupy preserved figs and whipped cod roe paired with plump potato and horseradish blini. The Wine Shop’s standout dish is the parmesan-crusted chicken schnitzel, served with Italian coleslaw and made even better by sipping on a chardonnay between bites. Either a local hero like Yarra Peaks or, on those very special occasions that call for good Burgundy, a 2019 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint Aubin Hommage a Marguerite Premier Cru. Yes, the name’s a mouthful, but a delicious one.
Why we love it

City Wine Shop takes its wine seriously but it’s never snobby or exclusive about it. The wine list is remarkably reasonably priced, with the majority of bottles retailing below $100. That said, if you’re in the mood for a 2018 Matrot Puligny Montrachet premier cru Les Combettes and have $275 to spare, you can get that too. And if you want something extra special or difficult to find, it’s very likely they’ve got something suitable in stock. 

With the four dining and drinking spaces – on the street, the verandah, inside at the bar or in the back room – the efficient, black-clad staff always do their best to fit you in somewhere.

Who to takeThe beauty of City Wine Shop is that it’s as suited to first dates as it is to creative meetings, and significant celebrations around the big table at the back of the shop.
Regular's tipBesides what’s offered on the list, be sure to ask staff what’s being poured on the day. There’s always something interesting and out of the ordinary being opened and poured by the glass for patrons. Mondays are mystery-wine days – staff will choose a bottle, often something unique or funky, and pour it blind for patrons. Keep an eye on the Shop’s Instagram account for the latest deliveries of fine wines –  the latest vintage Barolo coming in from Italy, for instance.