Melbourne newcomer Circl signals its serious commitment to wine with a 1500-strong list, but this is a bar with an equally serious dedication to making wine culture accessible to all.
Circl’s wine list will take you around the world and back again, if you like, but there’s also plenty to shout about from right here on home turf. There’s nothing wrong with opting for a sturdy Australian shiraz – and you bet Xavier will help you get the most out of it – but scooch down the by-the-glass list and you’ll find a handful of grapes you’re going to want to get to know. You could start with Garagiste’s tangy and textural aligoté out of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, or opt for something fresh from out west such as Fervor’s “Nonna Diana” vermentino – both as friendly on the palate as they are on the wallet.
And if you’re serious about celebrations, Circl can be, too. A list that offers 135 bottles of Champagne at any one time rises to that challenge. The Champagne spectrum reaches far and wide, and we suggest starting with something bubbly from progressive producer Champagne Clandestin, or if you’re going all out, enter the tried-and-tested domaine of Jacques Selosse. The house has been at it since the late 1950s and collected more than a few awards over the years, so it’s safe to say those celebrations of yours are in good hands.
If you drop into Circl for a good but short time, there’s a snack that’ll match up to wherever you land on the robust by-the-glass list. You’ll find several nods to chef Elias Salomonsson’s Swedish heritage – oysters with buttermilk and pine oil, a brown-butter crumpet accessorised with Yarra Valley salmon roe and crème fraîche – but it’s his smoked-eel tart with compressed cucumber and horseradish that’s been really turning heads.
If you’re here for a long time, the likes of Loddon Estate duck with Davidson plum barbecue sauce is a real hit at the weightier end of the menu, as is the Royal Blue potato gnocchi for those after an animal-free experience.
