NOW EXPERIENCING:Centro 86
Monday: 4:00 PM – 12:00 AM
Phone
No phone
Website
centro86.com
Instagram
@centro.86

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 12 Jun 2024

By
Matty Hirsch


A busy evening inside Centro 86 in Sydney

Sydney’s reigning champions of tequila and mezcal strike again with a hyper-stylised, subterranean bar paying homage to the Margarita in the CBD’s bustling core.

Serving drinks at Centro 86 in Sydney
Why you go

It takes a certain level of confidence to call your establishment an “extra-ordinary tequila bar”, not to mention genuine talent and vision. In the case of Centro 86, however, that’s a totally justified claim. It is, after all, the fifth venue from the Mucho group – the masterminds behind some of Sydney’s most game-changing watering holes, including micro mezcal specialist Cantina OK!, home to what’s widely considered the city’s finest Margarita. Over the years, Mexico’s vast and varied drinking landscape has become a particular focal point for these folks, and that’s true of their latest effort, too, located in a hard-to-find basement off Pitt Street. 

Tumble down the stairs, and you’re thrust into an art-filled, 120-capacity space modelled after the time-worn, atmospheric saloons lining the centre (or Centro) of Mexico City, all dark wood, stained glass and lots of candlelight. Sure, exceptional Margaritas might be the major crowd-puller, but the hefty back bar is also a serious drawcard for tequila diehards. As with all things Mucho, it’s an immersive experience, with drinks as precise as the service is sharp. And with no windows or clocks to speak of, there’s every chance you’ll lose track of place and time, which – let’s face it – is probably why you rocked up in the first place.

What drink to order The most sensible opening move is the Centro Margarita: a foolproof combo of tequila, house-infused orange liqueur and lime in a salt-rimmed coupe, kept well chilled and neatly dilute thanks to hand-shaved ice. More adventurous drinkers, meanwhile, might want to spring for the handful of inventive Marg variations like the Verde with kiwifruit and parsley, or the yuzu-laced, Champagne-topped Royale, which tastes like a liquid Calippo. Elsewhere, classics like the Mojito and the Caipiroska get clever updates – the former is hit with tequila, chia and pandan, the latter spiked with green-tea vodka. Easy-drinking beers and a tight edit of low-input wines round out the line-up, along with the full range of the Mucho’s much-loved OK! Sparkling Margarita Seltzers – always a great palate cleanser.
Cocktails served up at Centro 86 in Sydney
What to pair it withThere’s no kitchen at Centro, but like some of its sister venues, there’s free popcorn. And not just average popcorn, but freshly popped, often still-warm kernels seasoned with Korean chilli powder and a secret blend of spices that will have you hooked after a handful. A word of caution: one bag is never enough, two might push you over the edge, and three – as you may well discover – can easily pass for dinner.
Why we love itYou’ve got to love a spot that keeps the doors open well into the night, seven days of the week – and Sydney could use a lot more of them. More staff around town with the contagious degree of enthusiasm and engagement you’ll find here definitely wouldn’t hurt, either. But where Centro really shines is in the details – from the freshness of the garnishes through to the bellhop-meets-blackjack-dealer uniforms and the rail beneath the bar to rest your feet on, this joint sweats the small stuff and really gets it right.
The bar at Centro 86 in Sydney
Don’t leave withoutBe sure to have a proper look around the room, starting with the bar top. Australian artist David Humphries, the mastermind behind the interstellar bar top at Martini-centric sibling Bar Planet, has created another winner here – a hyper-colourful, almost Cubist mosaic that spans the length of the (very long) counter. Up on the bottle-green walls, there’s a lot to admire as well. Mucho’s associate creative director Clayton Ciolac designed almost every one of the dozens of framed pieces hanging, including a series of deceptively real vintage-style advertisements for Centro’s own house creations including Angel Oro lager, Mano Mano orange liqueur and an excellent spicy liqueur dubbed Rattlesnake, flavoured with pasilla and árbol chillies.
Make it fancyIf you’re more the cocktail-swilling type, you can pimp your Margarita with top-shelf tequilas like the slinky, beautifully balanced Fortaleza Blanco ($40), or mega-rich, ultra-rare Gran Patrón Piedra ($186), which might be the priciest out there. High-rolling sippers, on the other hand, should consult the handsomely bound book of 100-ish tequilas and mezcals, which cap out at $160 a nip for Fuenteseca’s 15-year-old Extra Añejo tequila, awash with oaky sweetness and whisky-like sting.
image credits: Dexter Kim