NOW EXPERIENCING:Cantina

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 02 Dec 2022

By
Fiona Donnelly


At Cantina in Queensland's Mermaid Beach

The mood at this Spanish-inspired hole-in-the-wall Gold Coast bar is casual, but the drinks and snacks at Cantina are laser-sharp and the dial is cranked up to party.

The entrance to Cantina in Queensland
Why you goTalk about buried treasure. Set back from the busy Gold Coast Highway in a nondescript shopping centre, there’s a spot, smaller than the average suburban lounge room, where lucky punters are likely to be enjoying some of the best times available on the Glitter Strip – possibly the entire Queensland east coast. This tiny two-hander has a warm, homespun feel that helps to conjure the kind of relaxed, fun vibes flashier fit-outs just can’t buy. It’s no surprise when you realise who’s at the helm. Cantina is a successor to low-key Goldie legend Lupo (which, incidentally, made the New York Times, not once, but twice during its illustrious five-year tenure). The owners, the Pearce family, craved change post-lockdowns, so they shuttered and split their much-loved restaurant earlier this year and set up Piatto, a tiny laid-back Italian eatery, and Cantina, a Spanish-leaning wine bar. Here, son Harry Pearce and partner Missy Price now produce snack magic from the most basic of open kitchens while graciously ensuring glasses remain topped up. And if the handsome L-shaped copper-topped bar looks familiar, that’s because it’s a cut-down version of the U-shaped one that used to grace Lupo. Gotta love the upcycling.
Why you stayForget Erinsborough – this is where neighbours actually become good friends, and quickly. Particularly if you get in early and nab one of just a dozen spots around the bar. It’s a scene that encourages a house-party kind of conviviality. There’s remixed reggae and rock on high rotation, stills of Bill Murray from The Life Aquatic and vintage drink ads on the walls. A mirror ball dangles in the centre of the room. It’s an unstudied look, but you can feel the love and thought that’s gone into bringing the place to life. On Monday nights, you might find some of the coast’s best hospo people here, watching a boater-wearing Harry deftly plating up puffy prawn fritters with preserved-lemon mayo, or dishing out patatas bravas, the Spanish crunchy fried chunks of potato with spicy sauce. Meanwhile, Missy might be pouring reasonably priced wines by the glass or delivering a bottle or two from the Spanish-leaning wine list. 
The open kitchen counter at Cantina in Mermaid Beach, QLD
One of the dishes served up at Cantina
What drink to orderIt takes confidence to condense almost your entire drinks list across two A5 pages. But Cantina’s clever, bare-bones edit, which changes regularly, brings the goods. Who wants to pore over pages of wines when you can just point at something you know will taste delicious? If you’re after a fresh white, Viña Olabarri’s Viura Blanco from the Rioja in Spain could be on pour. Otherwise try a Hacienda el Olmo Crianza red from the same region. For rosé fanciers, a blushing grenache blend from low-intervention makers Alegre y Valganon will see you right. Among the handful of cocktails, the house Martini is made with Lillet apéritif rather than vermouth, while Spanish sparkling cava stands in for prosecco in the Aperol Spritz. And be sure to ask about the ever-expanding list of sherries – bone-dry fino sherry is a great match with those anchovy and tomato toasts.
What to pair it withThe mortadella sando has become an early signature – the fried crumbed slices of Italian lunch meat layered with a parsley and caper salad in brioche slices slathered with mustard mayo hit every tastebud target. Prawn fritters feature as a special from time to time – the juicy hunks of prawn clad in a GF-friendly batter made with chickpea flour are worth keeping a keen eye out for on the blackboard menu. There’s jamón if you’re feeling fancy, or those tasty patatas bravas for $10 a serve if you’re not, while specials may include local snapper pan-fried and finished with an anchovy and garlic butter. Many regulars just turn up and ask to be fed. It’s that kind of joint.
Bar counter seating at Cantina in Queensland
The specials board at Cantina
Why we love itIt’s a pocket-sized space, but with some punters just here for a quick pre-dinner drink, it’s likely Missy will squeeze you in somewhere before too long. If you want to be sure of a spot at the bar, come early. The outside tables are another good option.
Regular’s tipKeep an eye on socials for news of events like the Lupo Supper Club. These evenings bring the Pearce family together again, with dad Brad and mum Thea from Piatto next door joining to recreate a Lupo-style party across both venues.
Make it fancyAlongside the cool list of Spanish low-intervention vinos, Cantina is quietly building its Spanish gin collection. For something different, try a Nordés gin on ice. This Galician spirit is distilled from albariño grapes, and the local Spanish botanicals used include wild sage, peppermint and glasswort, a beach succulent. That’s kinda fancy.