NOW EXPERIENCING:Before + After

Hidden down a city-centre alleyway, moodily lit Before + After feels like a bartender’s dream dive bar, with an unrivalled list of cracking Italian-style amari liqueurs that’s not just for the drinks nerds.

The moody setting at Before + After in Brisbane
Why you goIt’s highly unlikely anyone finds themselves at Before + After by accident. This basement-dweller is hidden down a characterful old brick-clad access lane in the city centre with zero signage to indicate you’ve arrived. There’s no website either. Or any information about what’s on pour here, other than clues in the bar’s name and its active Instagram presence. Even so, word is spreading about owner George Curtis’s fascination for amari, Italian-style bittersweet liqueurs typically drunk as aperitivi (before dinner) and digestivi (after dining). George, formerly of Agnes Restaurant, is amassing an ever-expanding collection of varieties – 71 and counting – sourced from around the globe, and across the decades. This makes Before + After an enticing prospect for those who love complex, interesting flavours. It’s also a great stepping-off point for anyone who has gazed at a well-stocked backbar and wondered what the drinks with the really interesting labels might taste like.
Why you stayHead towards the black door and down the steps to find a warmly lit, intimate space with a mix of original brickwork and copper-hued walls. A couple of comfy leather couches at the back are made for lounging, high tables suit drinks with mates, while simple tables for two are perfect for date-night digestivi and D&Ms. The backbar is made from wooden milk crates left behind by the previous tenants, and this is where the bounty is displayed – anything from vintage aperitivi such as a 1940s bottle of Suze through to Beechworth Bitters’ Beetlejuice, an Australian amaro based on rhubarb and citrus with the red hue of carmine dye from cochineal beetles. George will soon be tableside dropping off the drinks list and water and chatting about his latest finds. Music-wise, expect hip-hop on weekends, and beats, neo-soul and funk during the week, with the smooth likes of Tom Misch on high rotation.
Italian style amari liqueurs on a table
Holding a Negroni
What drink to orderThe drinks menu is handily divided into styles such as “gateway”, with the amari described as sweet, citrusy and approachable, through to “advanced” where the options are described as intense and unique. The latter section might yield Silvio Carta Amaro’s aromatic Cartamaro from Sardinia, which features the flavours of artichoke, rosemary and mirto from the Italian island’s famous myrtle plant. Or kick off with an earthy, herbaceous shot of artichoke-fuelled Cynar from the gateway selection. The cocktail round-up is well worth considering. The Luigi, for instance, is a mix of minty-spicy Braulio Amaro shaken with Campari and presented in a fluted coupe. The Dutch Curry, meanwhile, is a funky blend of curry leaf-infused Mr Black Coffee Amaro, Poor Toms Imbroglio amaro, pineapple, citrus and soda. George says it embodies the spirit of Before + After; it’s surprising, refreshing, and super delicious. There’s a handful of new-wave wines on pour, from the likes of Victoria’s Latta Vino, Sven Joschke from the Barossa and La Violetta from Western Australia.
Why we love itBefore + After brings something brave and bold to Brisbane. That it does this hidden down an alley without signage is probably bonkers, but in the best way possible.
What to pair it withA nicely bronzed three-cheese toastie, served with a splodge of amaro mustard and a fat gherkin or cucumber slices, is about as exotic as it gets here. But then this bar is called Before + After, so if you want something fancier, you can slip that in between visits. The platter of cured meats might also appeal – Spanish-style jamón serrano ham from local maker Saison, slices of venison mortadella, and perhaps black truffle and squid-ink salami. Just add Mount Zero olives or a serve of potato chips
Regular’s tipFirst time here? Head for Irish Murphy’s on the corner of George and Elizabeth Streets, then duck down the arched alleyway that sits beside the pub on the George Street side. Stroll to the end of the laneway and Before + After will be on your left.
Spanish-style jamon and other charcuterie on a platter at Before + After
Some of the amaro at Before + After in Brisbane
Make it fancyDelve into the depths of liquid history and peruse the collection of vintage amari – a glass of 1970s Branca Menta at $325 a pop, perhaps, or a 1970s Montenegro for $75. Or try the ghost of an amaro in a Tasmanian whisky seasoned in an amaro cask by Lark Distillery at $45 a shot.
Who to takeImpress a visitor – and demonstrate how much Brisbane is changing – by bringing them to Before + After either side of dinner in the city. It’s equally good for a date or a catch-up with anyone who appreciates complex and rewarding flavours in their glass.