NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Suze

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 24 Aug 2022

By
David Matthews


Outdoor seating Bar Suze in Sydney

A cosy next-gen Euro-style wine bar with a Scandinavian edge, Bar Suze stakes a claim as Surry Hills’ next big thing with alt wines and a weekly changing menu.

Interiors at Bar Suze in Surry Hills
Why you goSurry Hills has long been an epicentre of Sydney’s wine-bar culture, home to a long line of influential and cutting-edge establishments that have left their mark on the city. Bar Suze, opened in April 2021, pulls on that same thread but ties it to the moment by combining low-intervention wines and next-wave Euro-Australian cooking with a modern Scandinavian sensibility that plays off chef Phil Stenvall’s Swedish roots. If that sounds like a mouthful, know that it all comes together without a hitch, thanks to the good senses of the kitchen and the good graces on the floor of Gregory Bampton, who cut his teeth at such fine Sydney establishments as the late Pinbone and ACME. Sidle up to the marble bar or grab a seat out by the entrance and, as the candles burn low and one drink turns to two, Suze will win your heart and mind with its unique and spirited approach that feels entirely fresh but somehow comfortingly familiar.
Why you stayIt’s less about why you stay and more about why you keep coming back. Bar Suze’s menu changes every single week, meaning that each and every visit you’ll find something different on offer. Sure, there are some staples, such as savoury churros dredged in fancy cheese, but even they might come with anchovy and quince one week, parmesan and garlic honey the next. As for the atmosphere, things are cosy and intimate, with a hint of Scandi cool – timber-topped tables and stools, clean white walls – added to a Euro-chic setting complete with marble bar, terrazzo-style flooring and open kitchen. There’s room to stand, perch, sit and settle in, while the drinks show off the best new-wave producers from our shores as well as the Old World, particularly France, Italy, Spain and Germany. What more could you ask for?
A group sitting outside at Bar Suze in Sydney
What drink to orderThere’s a decent stock of interesting beers and apéritifs (especially vermouth) here, and staff will throw together a fine Spiced Negroni or Highball, but really Bar Suze is all about the wine. You might start with something zippy and acid-driven that’s tinted orange from extended skin contact in the ferment, or go straight to a juicy Partida Creus red blend made just outside Barcelona. Either way, prices are more than fair and exploration is encouraged, so ask for guidance and strap in for a journey of discovery.
What to pair it withThis can be tough. Not just because Bar Suze is committed to shaking up the menu every Wednesday, but with so much good on it decisions aren’t easy. Still, a few staples are not to be missed. We’ve mentioned the standout churros, but the smoked tiger prawns served in the shell with mayonnaise, sometimes flavoured with curry, other times saffron, have become something of a signature. Then, if you’re craving something more substantial, Stenvall clocked time at the late nearby Italian wine bars Vini and 121 BC, so his pasta, gnocchi and risotto work is top-notch. Grab one or two, or keep it simple with steak frites, perhaps, or grilled sirloin with anchovy gratin.
Why we love itFoveaux Street has had its ups and downs, but it’s refreshing to see Bar Suze bringing some life back to an area that’s been out of the limelight for a little while. Walk past and you can’t help but have your eye drawn to the bold, scrawled logo on the orange sign that hangs outside or the hip young crowd spilling out the door. Take a seat, and as the night unfolds you’ll find that not only is Bar Suze nailing the format, it’s doing it in a way that isn’t quite like anywhere else. Add the fact that every week brings new things to snack on, and it’s wins all round.
Smoked tiger prawns and a glass of wine at Bar Suze
Customers at Bar Suze
Regular’s tipIt may only be open from Wednesday to Saturday, but Bar Suze launched with a mission to keep the kitchen going as late into the night as it could. Roll up here after a one-woman play at the Belvoir, say, or after you’ve hit a bar or two and chances are the grill will still be firing and the Swedish skagen prawn toast will still be flying out of the kitchen. Also, rumours are that the team have been developing their own wine with a collaborator, so keep your eyes peeled for the first drop.
Who to takeThis is a tight, skinny venue where the tables aren’t really made for more than a few people so, while you could perch outside with a group of six, Bar Suze is really made for smaller parties. Jump onto the swivel stools fronting the bar with a mate and practise your banter with the chefs and bartenders, or find a candlelit corner with a date, order a drink and a hasselback potato topped with crème fraîche and caviar and see where the night leads you.