NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Rogue

When great restaurants open bars, punters expect great things, and Bar Rogue delivers on the promise via a drinks list that comforts and surprises, ace snacks and tight service.

Snacks and a glass of wine at Bar Rogue
Why you goJust when you thought Perth wine bars were starting to look a little too samey-samey, along comes Bar Rogue to remind punters there’s more to the genre than casual waitstaff clutching bottles of cloudy skin-contact wine. Don’t get us wrong; we love a lo-fi wine bash as much as the next natural-wine enthusiast. But there are situations in life that call for somewhere that’s more about the polish than the party. Somewhere, for instance, where staff are as well dressed as they are well drilled. And where guests have the security of being able to order a blue-chip wine they’re familiar with, but also have options for expanding their horizons. Now factor in the street cred that comes from being a spin-off of wildly popular French bistro Le Rebelle and it’s easy to understand Bar Rogue’s appeal.
Why you stayIt’s a pleasure to be looked after by dapper staff who understand the meaning, and feeling, of hospitality. Whereas many of Bar Rogue’s contemporaries ask guests to order and pay at counters and carry their own wine and glasses, the package here includes table service, a conversation-friendly setting, snacks that are a cut-above and other suspiciously restaurant-y drawcards. The split-level, multi-zone room has all occasions covered. Couples and solo drinkers will be drawn to the handsome old world-style wooden bar at ground level, while the mezzanine features a mix of small and big tables, the latter perfect for larger groups and spying into the semi-open kitchen.
What drink to orderThe word “wine” appears in this profile a lot, and understandably so. What is surprising, however, is the breadth of the list and the management’s preference for serving wines by lesser-known and upcoming winemakers, from both the conventional and not-so-conventional winemaking camps. From fizz and chilled reds to top-notch rosé from Bandol, a region in southern France renowned for its pink wines, the by-the-glass pours cover much ground. Beyond the wine, small-scale local distilleries shine in contemporary remakes of classic cocktails such as Gimlets and Martinis, there’s a tight edit of vermouths and other European apéritifs, and the tap beers are rotated frequently.
What to pair it withA drinks fridge brimming with this much excitement calls for a snacks menu that’s just as surprising. Enter Sofika Boulton, an emerging talent whose first outing as a head chef is showing real promise. She’ll wrap a duck egg with lamb meat that’s spiced like a Moroccan merguez sausage to create a cool North African remix of the Scotch egg. She’ll turn tofu and spice into one of the tastiest vegetarian curry puffs around. And, in the interests of uniting east and west, she’ll make a lacy roti flatbread and stud it with pieces of melted Greek cheese.
Cocktails on offer at Bar Rogue in Perth
Guests at Bar Rogue in Perth
Don’t leave withoutRockpool Bar & Grill has its wagyu burger, Sydney’s 10 William St has the pretzel with whipped roe, your local probably has a good parmi – bars around Australia all have their signature dishes. Here, it’s the “supa crunch taco” starring lobster, avocado and Japanese chilli tucked into a crisp, cigar-type shell. In addition to this don’t-leave-without recommendation, may we offer some don’t-arrive-without advice and direct you to the bar’s Instagram? Social media is the best way to track the kitchen’s daily specials and get the low-down on what yakitori-style skewers will be grilling over charcoal that evening. And when heading to the bathroom, look out for the salvaged signs from the space’s past lives as a kebab shop and brasserie.
Who to takeDespite those large communal tables on the mezzanine, the majority of Bar Rogue is given over to settings for two, from the benches near the front door – better for drinking and chatting than eating – to the cosy nooks for couples by the staircase. This is prime date-night territory, certainly, but the space is equally suited to catch-ups of the platonic variety. While the room can work itself up to a pleasant hum, the volume doesn’t quite get up to concert noise levels – all the better to chat and hear yourself, and the people you came with, drink.