NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Morris

Bar Morris has reshaped the hotel-bar blueprint into something cooler, with a thoughtful wine list and standout snacks served in a space with city-slicker good looks.

Plush banquettes inside Sydney's Bar Morris
Why you goPost-pandemic, Sydney suddenly seemed to erupt with boutique hotels and their accompanying lobby or rooftop bars as though caught by some kind of contagion. Conceived at a similar time and to what often seemed like a uniform brief, many of them began to feel exhaustingly formulaic and samey. Bar Morris, which sits in the lobby of the new Hotel Morris in Sydney’s Haymarket, hasn’t broken the mould exactly, but it’s definitely reshaped it into something a bit cooler, a bit more bespoke and – perhaps most importantly – somewhere you can fill yourself with properly good eats and drinks. “It feels a bit like a more affordable Ace Hotel,” said a guest who stayed recently, referring to the sexy, big-name competitor just a few streets away, and that’s a pretty fair assessment.
Why you stay

The lobby-level, 40-seater Bar Morris has the looks of a bar (and very good looks they are, too: lipstick-red tables, tiling and tassels, leather walls, art from local artists like Nick Herd, Gabrielle Jones and Marcus Piper), but the soul of a restaurant. You’re welcome to pull up a seat at the bar for a Spritz and a bowl of pasta, but the food and wine menus are both exciting enough to warrant a longer table booking. 

Even the music moves beyond the usual cookie-cutter bar-friendly Spotify playlists – although it was curated by a hospitality group who specialises in creating mood through music, the venue worked with it closely to push things a bit beyond the ordinary, and the tunes lean experimental rather than the usual bland background. 

What the service staff lack in experience they make up for with enthusiasm and they really know their stuff when it comes to both the drinks and the food menus – ask for advice and you’ll be steered well.

The setting inside Bar Morris in Sydney
Wine served at Bar Morris
What drink to orderQuite simply, a Foradori wine. The legendary Elisabetta Foradori is a fourth-generation, biodynamic Trentino winemaker and her hugely coveted wines are layered, expressive and exciting. Bar Morris pours her crunchy, salty and stony 2021 Manzoni Bianco – a natural white blend – but in limited quantities so grab it while you can, or anything else she makes if the ’21 has run its course. Even with its fairly considerable mark-up, which isn’t entirely unreasonable considering how hard it is to get hold of, it’s absolutely worth a pour. The cocktails, by Tom Bulmer from The Social Spirits, are also a good bet. The Spritz Giardino is frisky and fresh, made with Archie Rose Straight Dry Gin, green tea, Italian amaro liqueur and a sprig of rosemary, while the Negroni Speziato gets its quirk on with a dash of Chinese five-spice. Amaro addicts are also well taken care of: there’s a 10-strong list bookended by several citrus digestivos and grappas.
What to pair it with

Chef Rosy Scatigna is one to watch. Born in Puglia and making her way around the usual Euro Michelin-star circuit she most recently worked as a senior sous-chef at Shell House in the CBD. But all the paper accolades in the world mean nothing until you try her food, and Rosy’s food comes to the party. 

If you’re just wanting a quick snack with your drink, the picks are the ’nduja madeleines, where the usual sugar component is replaced with 36-month-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and preserved lemon. The delicate swipe of spicy spreadable ’nduja sausage filling gets a second pork pop from slices of guanciale cured pork and the whole thing is dusted with tomato powder. The house-made panfocaccia is also a firework of flavour, brushed with Apulian olive oil and garlic and served with a garlic and Parmigiano butter.

Settling in for a whole bottle of something? The risotto rules – perhaps made with a butternut purée and lemongrass broth, raw prawn slices and a not-shy hit of vinegar reduction to ward off the danger of the risotto one-note trap.

The 'nduja madeleines at Bar Morris are a highlight
Pasta and wine at Bar Morris, Sydney
Regular’s tipThe pasta and wine lunch special is one of Sydney’s best. Thirty bucks will get you a signature pasta dish like the spaghettone, aka fat spaghetti, with celeriac and hazelnut and a glass of house white or red.
Don’t leave withoutRoll the dice when your bill comes. Your server will give you a pair of dice and if you throw three multiples of three in a row, your table gets a free round of amaro shots.
Who to takeSomeone you’d like to share a bed with at the end of the night. The 82-room hotel above the bar is privately owned, but managed by Accor’s Handwritten portfolio and it has nailed the personality-plus brief. Each room is filled with smooth maroon and mustard tones, and includes hints of Australiana like jarrah wood plus amber onyx stone finishes. Keep an eye out for the monochrome line-drawing wallpaper of Grecian-style gods popping grapes in each other’s mouths in the hallways – a chicer-than-it-sounds touch.
image credits: Steven Woodburn