A European-style, hyper-regional bar delivering a considered range of wines and snack-like dishes composed of ingredients from their garden and district producers – local focus and local favourite.
Hospo veteran Andy Ainsworth (late of Sydney’s 10 William St and Brawn in London) and his designer partner Clare O’Flynn quit Sydney for Central Victoria in the thick of the pandemic to chase their dream of opening this “intensely regional” wine bar. Ainsworth’s cellar list showcases local heroes alongside some of Europe’s best regional wines. O’Flynn prepares simple dishes – served on vintage crockery – using their garden harvest and premium highlands produce.
Ainsworth says the concept for Merenda was inspired by their regular trips to France and Italy on food and wine odysseys. “It’s an obsession with that European way of life and thinking through that lens of being in regional Victoria,” he says. “Not being an impersonation or caricature of a French bistro or of Italy, but being a Victorian wine bar.”
Their 24-seater occupies a main street shopfront with half-barrels out front and colourfully arranged bottles in the window to attract passers-by. Inside, framed art and wine posters, blackboard menus, a crisp green and white paint job and cherry-red bar keep things cheerful and relaxed, as do O’Flynn’s home-grown posies.
Take a seat at one of the small marble tables or, better still, perch at the bar where Ainsworth plays enthusiastic host while O’Flynn keeps a calm presence preparing food around the corner.
Since opening in November 2021, Merenda has become a favourite among locals and out-of-towners for a pre-dinner drink, a nightcap or even a night out. The menu is small and snacky (hence “merenda”, Italian for afternoon snack), but there’s usually one larger dish on offer for those who want to settle in. Which is recommended – as the bar fills, stools are reshuffled to fit everyone in, the lights dim and feel-good tunes set the mood among kindred spirits.
Ainsworth’s list reflects what he loves to drink, so whether you’re after an apéritif, a bottle of wine or a beer, everything comes with his keen recommendation. This is helpful when offerings might be unfamiliar such as the Saison Fallen Quinces vermouth or an artisanal Etna Bitter made on the slopes of the Sicilian volcano. He’ll also happily fix you a classic Negroni, or the house Spritz of Maidenii vermouth from nearby Harcourt with a dash of Japanese yuzushu, a yuzu-infused sake.
The bound wine list is “an anthology”, Ainsworth says. “It’s very personal. I was never collecting to have a comprehensive, tick-all-the-boxes wine list. It’s the wines I love.”
Many are Victorian, and most are made simply, without additives or fuss. Some are made by new friends such as Owen Latta, winemaker at Latta Vino and Eastern Peake, and Josh Cooper of Joshua Cooper Wines; others are great expressions of place and grape such as Bill Downie’s Goulburn Valley pinot noir and Syrahmi Shiraz from Heathcote. His import list takes a lengthy detour through the Loire Valley, Burgundy, Beaujolais and the Jura, then pops over to Piedmont to pick up some stellar Barolos and Barbarescos. Along the way you’ll find absolute gems such as the Coenobium trebbiano blend, made by the nuns of Monastero Suore Cistercensi outside Rome. (Yes, nuns.)
Ainsworth and O’Flynn made smart use of lockdown to plant a vegetable garden at their Sailors Hill home just outside Daylesford. Its produce now defines what’s on Merenda’s menu each day. Usually you’ll find a country terrine (made by Ainsworth) with leaves and pickles, perhaps a light salad of greens, herbs and fresh cheese. And sourdough focaccia, baked by Ainsworth each day using heritage wheat and topped with the likes of layered potato and onions softened in vinegar.
Maybe start with a dish of tiny Mount Zero olives with a glass of fino sherry from Pennyweight in Beechworth, or a toasted slice of baguette with tapenade, anchovy and a Heathcote fiano white wine. Better still, ask Ainsworth what would go best with each dish. He’s the expert.
