NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Conte

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 01 Feb 2023

By
Alexandra Carlton


The entry into Bar Conte in Sydney

Come for the pick-and-mix menu of 20 Negronis, stay for the exclusively Italian wines, house-made focaccia and Negroni-flavoured tiramisu at this family-run neighbourhood bar.

A Negroni and snacks served at Bar Conte
Why you goThere are Champagne bars, whisky bars, gin bars and tiki bars, but it’s far rarer to find a bar that devotes itself wholly to a single cocktail. If you were going to pick one to hitch your bar’s wagon to, though, you could do worse than the noble Negroni. The classic cocktail of gin, red vermouth and Italy’s bittersweet Campari liqueur finished with a slice or twist of orange originated in either Milan or Florence some time in the late 19th century or early 20th century, depending on which history you subscribe to. Bar Conte goes for the 20th-century Florence version, and this drink has rarely found itself off a cocktail menu anywhere since. And what happened when this intimate corner bar in Sydney’s Surry Hills decided to devote itself to the rosy good stuff? The crowds came.
Why you stayYou’re here for the Negronis, but the fit-out is one of the loveliest Sydney’s seen in a long time, crafted by the careful hand and excellent eye of designer and part-owner Victoria Hampshire (also on board are her husband Raffaele Lombard and chef Steve De Vecchi). There’s warm parquetry flooring, sea-green tiling, brick-red walls smudged like a lipstick swatch, inventive use of space with plenty of seating options and fun vintage posters. Even the music is sticking to the theme – a quick Shazam during one visit revealed a bit of smooth acid jazz from the aptly named Nicola Conte. Both the bar team and the crew in the open-plan kitchen are close enough to feel part of the action, and the fresh breeze from sash windows out to the Surry Hills bustle makes everything feel lazy and lovely. It’s a vibe. 
The inviting interiors at Bar Conte
Two of the cocktails served up at Bar Conte
What drink to order

A Piña Colada. Psych! A Negroni, of course. One of the 20 – that’s right, 20 – on offer. The second most popular after the classic is the Mexican, made with Ilegal Mezcal Joven, Carpano Bianco vermouth and Cocchi Americano, an aromatic aperitivo wine. It’s definitely one that will have you gripping the sides of the table – it pays to line your stomach. Another crowd favourite is, of course, the TikTok darling Sbagliato, which adds a splash of prosecco to zing up the original. 

Hot tip: unless you have the constitution of a hundred Anthony Bourdains in his prime, very few people can handle more than one or two Negronis in a sitting, so once you’ve dabbled, move on to the wine list, which is all fabulously Italian. The Bortolin Prosecco Valdobbiadene, for instance, is a crisp little sparkle-fest, while the Fontanessa Ca Adua Gavi is everything you want in a complex white.

 

What to pair it withWho says your Negroni has to be served in a glass? Here, you can also get it splashed into a vinaigrette and served with half a dozen Sydney rock oysters, and it also powers the tiramisu. The house-made focaccia is beautifully floofy, and if you can get your hands on the creamy whipped baccalà salt cod served with crostini, you very much ought to. It’s not all picky things either – there are a few solid pasta dishes if you really need to tame those cocktails. The pick is the king prawn strozzapreti with a chilli tomato sauce.
Various dishes at Bar Conte
A bartender mixing a drink at Bar Conte
Why we love itThe central Surry Hills location and breezy walk-in policy (bookings are available, but the staff always keep a table or two for anyone wanting to try their luck) mean that Conte has “after-work knock-off quick one” written all over it, especially once the outdoor seating area is approved. And the squeezy but not cramped intimacy, along with the family-run kitchen and bar give the sense they’ll know your name pretty quickly if you make a point of popping by on the regular. It’s exactly what a neighbourhood bar should be.
Regular’s tipIf you’re here for a quick drink on your own or with a partner or friend, the two high-top bar stools on the right-hand return of the bar are surprisingly tucked-away and intimate. If comfort’s key, ask for the squishy booth seat that sits on the Foveaux Street side, which has the bonus of a nice breeze at your back.
Don’t leave withoutMake a date with yourself to head back the next morning for an ONA espresso. By day, this buzzy bar magics itself into a mild-mannered cafe under the name Caffè Conte, serving coffee, pastries and panini.
The sign outside Bar Conte in Sydney's Surry Hills
image credits: Steven Woodburn