NOW EXPERIENCING:Anchovy Bandit

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Posted 23 Sep 2022

By
Kate Richards


Inside the popular Adelaide venue Anchovy Bandit

Stop in for a pizza and glass of nebbiolo at this Italian-accented bar and restaurant, or go for the  full-blown four-course feast with cocktails to match.

Food and wine at Anchovy Bandit
Why you goWhile central Adelaide is bursting at the seams with excellent bars and restaurants, the ’burbs in Australia’s littlest capital city are still catching up. It’s no surprise, then, that when pizza and cocktail bar Anchovy Bandit opened in 2018, the masses flocked – its tight menu of pasta, pizza and antipasti, coupled with classic cocktails and a decent wine list, made it a sleeper hit. And things have only gotten better since the venue’s conception. In 2020, the Bandit got a slick extension into an adjoining building, and a new chef with some serious cooking chops; Shane Wilson, formerly of the Barossa’s Hentley Farm took the menu from serviceable to excellent in just a matter of months. On any given night here, the vibes are just right: a lively mix of families, groups and oldies that feels just like being at a friend’s place, only with better food and wine.
Why you stay

The breezy main dining room, brightened with trailing greenery and Billie Justice Thomson artworks, has a sleek timber bar, warm glow from the ever-cranking pizza oven, and an affable host whose pitch-perfect service recalls family run Italian joints of yesteryear. Everything about Anchovy Bandit is deeply considered, without feeling contrived. It’s grounded in Italian tradition, not confined by it. And it’s this clever approach to both the food and drinks that has cemented the venue as a weeknight staple, the comfy leather booths heaving come dinnertime.

Cocktails and amari, Italy’s bittersweet liqueurs, take centre stage, with classic aperitivo-style drinks reimagined in novel ways. Like the sprightly (and low-alcohol) Molto Bizzarro that combines house-made orange syrup, bitters and Bizzarro liqueur – all foamed up and served in a dainty Glencairn whisky glass.

And we can’t forget the bar’s position under one of Adelaide’s few remaining arthouse cinemas, Palace Nova Prospect, cementing the Bandit’s reputation as one of the best date-night spots in the city.

 

A bowl of pasta at Anchovy Bandit
The beautiful Interiors of Anchovy Bandit
What drink to orderWith a snappy cocktail menu that takes its cues from the likes of Melbourne’s Bomba Bar and other legendary Australian watering holes, it would be remiss not to order one. The list changes with the seasons, but you could enjoy a spirits-forward, skilfully executed New York Sazerac featuring Bulleit rye whiskey, a briny gin-based Gibson, or a chilli-laced Midori number made modern with mezcal and lime. There’s wine, too, naturally. And while the list leans heavily towards Australian and Italian producers (covering plenty of serious structured reds), it also dips a toe into the US, France and Spain. And, of course, when in Italy, you should finish with a bittersweet amaro. Play it safe with a classic Montenegro-ice-orange combo, or branch out into the many rare finds on the back bar. We like the vegetal funk of cloudy Cappelletti’s Sfumato Rabarbaro.
What to pair it withThe menu occupies that increasingly rare space between wipe-clean the menus and kitchen tweezers – everything’s technique-forward and incredibly tasty without being showy. So, while it’s easy to love all-you-can-eat pizza Monday nights ($30 a head with $18 Negronis), there’s also much to like about smart little dishes, such as the ever-changing creamy burrata cheese where chef Wilson eschews the often-mealy tomato garnish in favour of punchier flavours like, according to the season, curry leaf and mushroom, or cucumber, sesame and a glug of deeply savoury chilli oil. And then there’s the pasta. It’s handmade daily to exacting standards and swirled with whatever’s good, be it earthy mushrooms, pungent cheeses or a tender slow-braised ragù. Utterly drool-worthy.
Inside Anchovy Bandit in Adelaide
A chef plating up a dish at Anchovy Bandit in Adelaide
Why we love itThis suburban diamond epitomises what great hospitality is all about: a smart menu with hit after hit on the drinks list, all presented by some of the city’s most enthusiastic staff. Is it groundbreaking? Not really. But it does what is says on the tin every single time. Consistency is a hard thing to nail, but Anchovy Bandit gets it just right.
Regular’s tipIf you can, book one of the coveted window seats in the OG dining room. Not only does it offer a view of the pizza chefs and bar, it also has some of the most intimate spots in the house. If the single drink you planned on turns into dinner and a bottle of something nice, this is exactly where you’d want to be positioned.
Make it fancyWe think the ideal setting to impress prospective parents-in-law, a new boss or new squeeze would look something very much like Anchovy Bandit – simple, sophisticated and subtly innovative. You’d perch at the bar with a glass of crisp prosecco before deciding on the four-course “director’s cut” set menu featuring snacks, pizza and pasta, then splash out on a vibrant bottle of 2018 Ceretto Barbaresco – all red berries and focused acidity.