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Amuro

Tuesday: 4:00 – 10:00 PM
2/255 Crown Street, Darlinghurst, NSW, 2010
Phone
No phone
Website
amuro.au
Instagram
@amuro.au

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 10 Jan 2024

By
Matty Hirsch

At the bar counter at Amuro in Sydney

This tucked-away sake specialist might be small in size, but it’s big where it counts, delivering on the service, food and drink fronts with distinctively Japanese flair.

Why you goEver tried to find a restaurant or bar in Tokyo? It can be a tricky business, and Amuro stays true to that spirit of adventure. The address is on Crown Street, but you’ll actually find it hidden away on Goulburn Street, just off the main drag. There’s no signage whatsoever, and the double-glazed windows do such a good job of muffling the bubbly J-pop music and chit-chat inside that there’s every chance you’ll walk right past this self-proclaimed “boutique sake room” without taking notice. But take notice you should – this is one of a growing number of establishments doing a bang-up job of bringing Japan’s complex bar culture to Sydney’s streets.
The bar counter at Amuro in Sydney
Why you stayWander into the (very) slender and low-lit space, and what’ll strike you first is just how calm it feels. Even if all 20 seats are occupied and the open kitchen-bar is in full swing, there’s a sense of tranquillity here that’s sure to rub off on you. Mostly, it’s due to Sydney architect Matt Darwon’s minimalist fit-out, heavy on coolly elegant concrete and burnished blackwood. While nothing cries out for your attention, the quiet details are right in front of you – be it the smooth glide of the heavily sanded counter or the contoured edges of the stools. The fun part is looking for them.
What drink to orderAmuro has no printed drinks list to speak of, which makes for a bit of a ride. “Drinks”, reads a disclaimer at the foot of the menu, are “available through conversation”. So, call upon the knowledge of owner Kei Tokiwa to help lead the way. Beers, whiskies and Japanese shochu spirit are in no short supply, but the 50-strong constantly rotating stockpile of sake is the real star. Tell Kei you’re keen to start light and aromatic, and he might let you try two or three before landing on a brew from the northernmost prefecture on Japan’s main island that tastes of melon, pears and red apple skins. Prefer something richer? Let him steer you towards an unpasteurised style with notes of salted toffee, vanilla bean and roasted brown rice. To finish, try a traditional liqueur – perhaps a kiwi-like number that’s like sticking a straw straight into the centre of the fuzzy fruit.
Sake is the focus at Sydney's Amuro
Japanese-inspired dishes at Amuro
What to pair it withYou’ll recognise items like kingfish sashimi and fried chicken karaage on the handwritten postcard, which changes weekly. And while these are very good indeed, take this as an opportunity to look beyond the usual suspects to teeny ama-ebi (sweet spot prawns) topped with pickled wasabi stems, say, or a scoop of smoky potato salad given briny punch from a squiggle of mentaiko (pollock roe). Modest portions mean you’ll need to order up big to make a full meal of it, but given the calibre of rice bowls and charcoal-grilled meats, you’ll probably want to anyway.
Why we love itThe essence of Japanese hospitality is alive and well here, from the opening offer of a warm towel to wipe your hands to the perfectly folded bill that arrives at the finish. It’s all about the little things, and it’s clear that every element – the dainty glassware, handcrafted ceramics, adorable chopstick rests shaped like bananas or mythical creatures – has been selected with intent. What’s more, the free-wheeling approach to food and drinks means you’re guaranteed to try something new and learn a thing or two along the way.
The excellent menu at Amuro
A couple enjoying Amuro in Sydney
Who to takeIt’s almost impossible to picture a venue more suited to first dates and intimate catch-ups than this one, with 16 seats along the counter and a duo of small tables in the window. On that account, bring only one person or a couple at most. And if they’re interested in sake and interior design, and won’t whinge about sitting on a backless stool on the way home, then all the better.
Authour image
Matty HirschMatty Hirsch is a Sydney-based writer, critic and editor whose work has appeared in Time Out, Delicious and Gourmet Traveller.
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Drinks DirectorySydney – Inner CityRestaurantVego Food OptionsSpecialty BarCasual catch-upMeal and a bevNon-alc OptionsSydneyBarDate night
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