NOW EXPERIENCING:Gerald’s Bar

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 13 Apr 2022

By
Michael Harden


With an exceptional wine list, an impeccable record collection and offering an irresistible welcome, this is the neighbourhood bar that every neighbourhood wishes it had.

Inside Gerald’s Bar Melbourne
Why you goAnybody fond of small European bars or the shopfront watering holes of New York’s Lower East Side will immediately click with Gerald’s Bar. Whether you’re rubbing shoulders with fellow barflies and exchanging quips with the staff at the curving timber bar, squeezed around a closely spaced table with mates or people-watching from the coveted street-side tables, there’s an immediate sense of community here, the sort only found in the best neighbourhood bars. Gerald’s is a make-your-own-adventure kind of place too, as great for a nightcap as it is for dinner, with a casual and unpretentious attitude that masks a serious commitment to quality, whether you’re talking the gin in your Martini or the antipasti on your platter. It’s the kind of place where even newcomers leave feeling like seasoned regulars.
Why you stay

Don’t come here thinking ‘just a quick one and I’m out’ – you’ll only disappoint yourself. Gerald’s is about slowing down and taking your time. It could be that you want to catch the rest of a record that’s just been flipped – anything from 1980s ska and ’60s soul to New York New Wave, classic reggae or the great Nina Simone – or order another serve of excellent prosciutto or bresaola, cut to order on a hand-cranked slicer. The menu could keep you lingering too. Written by hand on butcher’s paper, it’s an ever-changing collection of wine-friendly food along the lines of shucked-to-order oysters, fried whitebait with lemon mayo, Caprese salad with smoked tomatoes, pork terrine, steak and potatoes and a spot-on tiramisu. Snacking and feasting are equally viable options. 

Then there’s the mesmerising puzzle of the décor. Do Gerald’s two small rooms with net half-curtains in the front window and walls and shelves teeming with things to look at (a giant framed poster of Alfie-era Michael Caine, well-thumbed cookbooks, kitsch op-shop trinkets), represent order or chaos? The same question applies to the crowd – what binds all these people of all different ages together? The answer might be the drinks list. It’s a strong well-constructed collection, particularly good on wine with styles and prices to suit all comers. There are decent cocktails too and quaffable beers. 

But the real reason you and all your fellow travellers linger? It’s because all these separate elements, plus soft golden lighting and witty, efficient staff, come together to cover every one of the desirable neighbourhood bar bases. Gerald’s makes you feel like you belong and that’s always a place always worth spending more time.

Gerald’s Bar Melbourne
Wine Dine at Gerald’s Bar Melbourne
What drink to orderThey stir a more than decent Martini and offer a commendable selection of spirits from grappa to whisky, but wine is Gerald’s Bar’s strength. The list is lengthy and thoughtfully selected, balancing enough quality European and local labels to satisfy both novices and nerds. The cellar is strong on classic winemaking from Australia and the rest of the globe (particularly Europe and particularly France) but also includes interesting examples of more out-there skin contact wines and bottles from places as diverse as Croatia and Oregon. One of the best ways to get a feel for the depth of what’s on offer is to keep an eye on what’s being poured by the glass. The system here has around five or six wines on pour (always a mix of whites, reds and sparkling) throughout the night that change each time a bottle is emptied. Anything from the list is eligible and, if you find yourself in the right place as a bottle is finished, you might be the one to choose what comes next.
Why we love itService has always been a highlight at Gerald’s, particularly if wit and attitude are something you enjoy and you’re not the kind of punter who believes the customer is always right. There’s no bowing and scraping but there is fantastic advice about what to drink next, good suggestions on what to order from the menu and a can-do attitude about getting you a table when you turn up with the bar at capacity. You might find yourself standing streetside waiting for a place but you’ll do it with a drink in your hand, the promise of a snack if you’re hungry and the reassurance that all will be well soon.
Regular’s tipWant to come with a group of friends for a celebratory dinner? The back room at Gerald’s will comfortably accommodate you and your mates. The question of making decisions about what to eat is solved with the set-course Feed Me menu that pulls together a selection of the greatest hits from the daily menu so all you need to do is decide whether the next bottle of wine will be Champagne or Chablis. (Or both.)