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Spain
The reign of Spain
‘With its old vine inheritance, and centuries-old wine culture, Spain has become a symbol of post-modern winemaking. A glorious revolution has taken place where traditional styles, including Rioja and Ribera de Duero, have evolved into contemporary classics and where once obscure grape varieties, including Albarin?o and Macabeo, are now extremely fashionable and exciting. Last year I travelled with Dan Murphy’s wine buyer Phil Wells to Spain to seek out some of the very best of genre. Using the yardsticks of value, quality and typicity we have found a thrilling selection of exclusive new Spanish acquisitions, each offering wonderful value at every price point. Enjoy!’
Left to Right: Andrew Caillard MW, Steve Greentree and Phil Wells.
Campo De Borja
A rising star on the Spanish wine scene, primarily because of the efforts of one producer, Borsao, seen here. The region has given itself the title of ‘Empire of Garnacha’ because of its prized cache of low-yielding old vine Garnacha.
Toro
Wine has been produced in this region since medieval times, recently rediscovered because of its ability to produce powerful Tempranillo-based wines, similar to those of its ultra-fashionable neighbour, Ribera del Duero.
Rías Baixas
This maritime region of North West Spain produces one of the world’s hippest regional wine styles of the last decade - Albarinño. These dry unoaked whites marry exotic spice and fruit power with thrilling acidity — making them a delicious apéritif or a supreme match with BBQ seafood.
Key variety: Garnacha (Grenache).
Borsao Tocado Grenache Blend 2009 ‘With an eye-catching label reminiscent of a vintage film poster, this this is set to become one of our most popular imported wines. Fortunately what’s inside the bottle is just as impressive. Juicy, minimally oaked Grenache.’
92/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Key variety: Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo).
Marqués de Olivara Tinta de Toro 2006 ‘This wine strikes a fine balance between the old and the new world. The traditional savoury, meaty complexity is there as is the primary fresh fruit of today. At four years this also shows the benefit of age.’
92/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
We also recommend
Viñas de Olivara Tinta de Toro 2008
Key variety: Albariño.
Pazo Barrantes Albariño 2009 ‘Possibly one of the sexiest looking wines on the market, both in terms of packaging and wine in bottle. Wonderful dry nectarine intensity and thrilling acidity. Albariño just doesn’t get much better than this.’
96/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Ribera Del Duero
As a general rule of thumb, the finest Tempranillo-based wines of this region tend to be more modern than their Rioja counterparts; fruit-driven, predominantly French oak matured and age-worthy, yet eminently approachable when young.
Penedès
A sub-region of Catalonia, famed for its high-quality Sparkling wines. Codorníu established production in the region in 1872. Indigenous grape varieties provide unique aroma and flavour profiles, most notably a compelling earthiness. More recently Chardonnay has been included in the mix.
Key varieties: Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Cabernet and Merlot.
Cepa 21 HITO Tinto Fino 2008 ‘This is modern Spanish winemaking at its best. This Tempranillo is just so intense and stylish that we want to tell the world about it. Dark chocolate, raspberry, cedary oak and bitumen.’
94/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Key varieties: Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada and Chardonnay.
Codorníu Clasico Cava Brut NV ‘This Cava from the original producers (circa 1872) is made using the ‘methode traditional’ making the price point all the more remarkable. Dry with yeasty complexity, this is a top example that will appeal to lovers of dries styles of bubble’
91/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Rioja
Spain’s most historically significant region. Over 100 years ago much of the wine produced was shipped to England as poor man’s Claret due to the region’s ability to produce Bordeaux-like wines of complexity and structure at a fraction of the price.
Key varieties: Tempranillo, Garnacha (Grenache), Graciano (Carignan) and Mazuelo.
Campo Burgo Tempranillo 2008 ‘We discovered this over 12 months ago and it has become one of the most popular $10 wines amongst customers and Fine Wine staff alike. Adorable juicy unoaked Tempranillo, so much flavour, so much love.’
90/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Marqués de Murrieta Reserva Tempranillo Blend 2005 ‘What a coup to get this wine into our range. Certainly and deservedly one of the most highly regarded Rioja producers. These are the Riojas from which dreams are made.’
90/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Berberana
Berberana have produced wine for over 130 years and over that time have built a formidable international reputation for extraordinary value at every level of their range. What the wines all share is a fruit purity and soft tannin structure.
Berberana Carta Oro Reserva
Tempranillo Blend 2005
‘We discovered this over 12 months ago and it has become one of the most popular $10 wines amongst customers and Fine Wine staff alike. Adorable juicy unoaked Tempranillo, so much flavour, so much love.’
93/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Remírez De Ganuza
This producer has consistently attained high scores from both Wine Spectator and Robert Parker Jr. including a perfect 100 point score for the forthcoming ‘04 Gran Riserva. Is to Rioja what Grange is to Shiraz.
Remírez de Ganuza Trasnocho
Tempranillo Graciano 2005
‘Clearly the product of very old low-yielding vines, the concentration in this wine and across the board is simply breathtaking. These are clearly hand-made wines of the very highest calibre. Almost impenetrably inky with swathes of fruit, tannin and quality oak.’
97/100
Dan Murphy’s Wine Panel
Want to see the rest of our Spanish range? Click here for more.
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